Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [252]
Out in the boggy west, with its lonely vistas worthy of some lost world, look for signs for St Brendan’s Well, an ancient religious site that still attracts a smattering of pilgrims. Although evidence is rather thin, legend has it that St Brendan sailed here from Dingle, scaled the cliffs (in the 5th century), found a couple of dying pagans and anointed them. Things haven’t changed here much since then. From a narrow track, walk to the sacred well, with statues and recent offerings.
In Knightstown, see if the quirky little museum is open.
Sleeping & Eating
If you want to stay on the island, tiny Knightstown is a good base: it has pubs, food, walks, the ferry and Skellig Island boats.
Royal Valentia ( 066-947 6144; www.theroyalvalentia.com; Knightstown; r 35-75) This gingerbreaded old holiday resort has basic rooms and a pub (meals €6 to €20) that’s the centre of local life year-round.
Spring Acre ( 066-947 6141; www.springacrebb.com; Knightstown; s/d €40/70) Overlooking the Valentia Island ferry terminal – and owned by the ferry operator – the four rooms here are a comfortable respite and have use of the lovely front garden for watching the metronome-like movement of the ferry.
Getting There & Away
Most visitors reach Valentia Island via the bridge from Portmagee. From April to October, there is a ferry service ( 066-947 6141) to Knightstown on Valentia Island from Reenard Point, 5km southwest of Caherciveen. The five-minute crossing costs one way/return €5/8 for a car, €2/3 for a cyclist and €1.50/2 for a pedestrian. It operates between 8.15am (9am Sunday) and 10pm.
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PORTMAGEE
pop 375
Portmagee overlooks the south side of Valentia Island from the mainland. Its single street of colourful houses is much photographed. On summer mornings, the small pier comes to life with boats embarking on the choppy crossing to the Skellig Islands (opposite).
Portmagee holds set-dancing workshops ( 066-947 7108) over the May bank holiday weekend, with plenty of stomping practice sessions in the town’s Bridge Bar, which itself is good for impromptu music by the locals year-round and more formal sessions Tuesdays in summer.
Perfect for hanging around waiting for the weather to clear for the Skelligs, Portmagee Hostel ( 066-948 0018; www.portmageehostel.com; dm/d €15/46-52) is a sociable, no-frills place that’s also a good hub for walking.
The Moorings ( 066-947 7108; www.moorings.ie; s €70-100, d €100-140) is a friendly local gathering point, with 16 rooms split between modern sea-view choices and simpler options, most refreshingly white. The nautical-themed restaurant (meals €20 to €35) specialises in excellent seafood.
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SKELLIG ISLANDS
gannet pop 45,000
The Skellig Islands (Oileáin na Scealaga) are impervious to the ever-pounding Atlantic. George Bernard Shaw said Skellig Michael was ‘the most fantastic and impossible rock in the world’. A visit is a test of endurance for your stomach, bladder and brain, the latter because the sheer magnificence of the natural beauty and ancient ruins is mind-blowing.
You’ll need to do your best grisly sea-dog impression (‘argh!’) on the 12km crossing, which can be rough. There are no toilets or shelter on Skellig Michael, the only island visitors are permitted to land on. Bring something to eat and drink and wear stout shoes and weatherproof clothing. (Boat operators can often lend passengers old waterproof duds for the crossing.)
Activities
The Skelligs are a birdwatching paradise. Keep a sharp lookout during the boat trip and you may spot diminutive storm petrels (also known as Mother Carey’s chickens) darting above the water like swallows. Gannets