Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [267]
Russells ( 066-915 1747; maryr@iol.ie; The Mall; s/d from €50/90; ) Who can resist this location set back from a tiny babbling brook coursing through town? The modern rooms are tastefully decorated and an extensive breakfast menu includes kippers, salmon and French toast.
55 John St (Stella Doyle’s; 066-915 2378; www.stelladoyle.com; 55 John St; s/d €55/75; May-Sep) A surprise awaits as you enter the plain-fronted, plum-coloured facade here: a vision of colour and light from the back garden, which, while small, is alive with blooms. The two rooms are plainly comfortable; breakfast is a challenge as Stella, a chef, will cook whatever you want. Go on, order.
Sráid Eoin House ( 066-915 1409; www.sraideoinbnb.com; John St; s/d €60/80; Mar-Oct; ) Above a travel agency at the quiet end of town, the four rooms are comfy; the buffet breakfast allows contemplative and caloric browsing in the am.
Alpine Guesthouse ( 066-915 1250; www.alpineguesthouse.com; Mail Rd; s/d from €60/110; ) This nearly five-decade old favourite has bright rooms and a good selection of breakfasts, including free-range eggs, Kerry bacon and locally smoked salmon. Friendly owner Paul O’Shea is a mine of Fungie trivia.
Barr Na Sráide Inn ( 066-915 1331; barrnasraide@eircom.net; Upper Main St; r €60-120; ) The bar by the entrance has a style that only beautifies the crusty regulars and their hearts of gold. Rooms sprawl over three floors and are mostly good sized and comfortable. One of the best amenities is up on the 3rd floor: a guest self-serve laundry.
Marina Lodge ( 066-915 0800; www.dinglemarinalodge.com; The Wood; s/d from €60/120; ) A clean-cut, purpose-built B&B on the waterfront with a neat, modern interior. Power showers can blast off residue from any interactions with Fungie.
TOP END
Pax House ( 066-915 1518; www.pax-house.com; Upper John St; s/d from €90/120; ) From its highly individual decor (all bold colours and bright paintings) to the outstanding views over the estuary from room balconies and the terrace, Pax House is a treat. It’s 1km from the town centre.
Captain’s House ( 066-915 1531; captigh@eircom.net; The Mall; s/d €60/100; mid-Mar–mid-Nov; ) A streamside garden and beautiful interior furnishings make this handsome house a great choice. Snuggle in one of the eight rooms or by the peat fire.
Dingle Benner’s Hotel ( 066-915 1638; www.dinglebenners.com; Main St; s €100-110, d €140-180; ) A Dingle institution melding old-world elegance, local touches and modern comforts in the quiet rooms, lounge, library, bar and restaurant. Rooms in the 300-year-old wing have the most character; those in the new parts are quieter.
Eating
BUDGET
Novecento ( 066-915 0663; Lower Main St; pizza slice €3; 3.30-9.30pm) Follow the basil and garlic scents wafting from this beacon of affordable goodness occupying a tidy central storefront. Pizzas are classically styled: thin and wonderful.
An Grianán ( 066-915 1910; Green St; lunch €4-8; 9am-5pm) The cafe at this organic grocery serves soups with wondrous soda bread, goats cheese burgers, salads and lovely chocolate cake. Get sandwiches to go for your adventures.
An Café Liteártha ( 066-915 2204; Dykegate Lane; snacks €3-6; 9am-6pm) Curl up with a book and a cup of tea at this delightful spot at the back of a bookshop, and relax engulfed in the spirit of literary Dingle.
Goat Street Café ( 066-915 2770; Goat St; snacks & mains €4-12; 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Thu-Sat) A budget mecca, the perennially popular Goat Street Café gets mobbed in summer with folks seeking out its tasty salads, tarts and tagine. Dinner brings fresh seafood. It’s at the top of Main St.
For self-catering, try the big Garvey’s SuperValu ( 066-915 1397) near the Strand. Dingle’s farmers market ( 9am-3pm Fri) is by the bus stop. Ice cream in tourist towns can be a cliché but Murphy’s ( 066-915 2644; Strand St; cones from €2; 11am-10pm summer, shorter hours winter) breaks the mould. Amazingly good flavours here include honeycomb and an impossibly cooling mint chip.
MIDRANGE
Old Smokehouse ( 066-915 1061; Lower Main