Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [268]
Ashe’s ( 066-915 0989; Main St; mains €16-29; noon-3pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat) Owned by a distant relation of Gregory Peck (really, aren’t we all?), this elegantly fronted gastropub serves modern takes on seafood in old-fashioned surrounds. The tempura of pollack with coriander aioli is mighty fine.
Global Village Restaurant ( 066-915 2325; Main St; mains €18-25; 6-9.30pm Mar-Oct, later in summer) With the sophisticated feel of a continental bistro, this restaurant offers a fusion of global recipes gathered by the well-travelled owner-chef, whose CD and art collections are, well, global. Seafood is the base for many a dish. The wine list is excellent.
Half Door ( 066-915 1600; John St; mains €22-50, set menu €25; 12.30-2.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 5.30-10pm daily) Fish and shellfish are superbly presented at this outstanding seafood restaurant, which exudes a dignified, genteel air. The menu reflects what’s fresh down at the docks; the local shrimp and larger crustaceans are especially good here.
Out of the Blue ( 066-915 0811; The Wood; lunch €10-20, dinner mains €15-30; 12.30-3pm & 6-9.30pm Thu-Tue mid-Mar–mid-Nov) The funky blue-and-yellow exterior might make you think ‘chipper’. Wrong! Dingle’s best restaurant has an intense devotion to local seafood; if they don’t like the catch, they don’t open. Dishes are creative and change nightly. The surrounds are slightly shambolic – have a glass of wine from the tiny, overwhelmed bar and chill. Booking for dinner is essential. Lunchtime choices are simple and can be enjoyed outside.
Drinking
Dingle has over 50 pubs, many of them mongrel affairs that still have vestiges of their lives as shops. Two examples of this on Main St are Foxy John’s ( 066-915 1316) and Curran’s ( 066-915 1110), which respectively have old stock of hardware and outdoor clothing lying about. Don’t expect an exuberant welcome from the flinty-eyed locals.
Dick Mack’s ( 066-915 1960; Green St) Announced by stars in the pavement bearing the names of its celebrity customers, Dick Mack’s has an irrepressible sense of self. Ancient wood and ancient snugs dominate the interior, which is lit like the inside of a whiskey bottle. Out back there’s a warren of tables, chairs and characters.
Hannie Agnes ( 087 949 0832; Green St) Local haunt that’s known for its smooth Guinness and, during the summer, trad sessions and Irish coffee. The windows are frosted and the interior is spare – like a good pint.
Entertainment
The first three places listed are also prime pub pint venues.
MacCarthy’s ( 066-915 1205; www.maccacrthyspub.com; Goat St) Popular bar containing one of Ireland’s smallest venues. There is music at the weekends; check the website.
John Benny’s ( 066-915 1215; Strand St) Lively trad, set dancing and singing are on offer from 9.30pm Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
An Droichead Beag (Small Bridge Bar; 066-915 1723; Lower Main St) Traditional music kicks off at 9.30pm nightly at this raucous pub by the bridge.
Blue Zone ( 066-915 0303; Green St; 6pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 12.30am Sun) Late-night hang-out with Corona, San Miguel and pizzas on the menu and live music on Tuesday and Thursday.
Shopping
Amid Fungie flotsam there are shops with beautiful goods by local artisans.
An Gailearaí Beag ( 066-915 2976; Main St) A showcase for the work of the West Kerry Craft Guild, selling ceramics, paintings, wood carvings, photography, batik, jewellery, stained glass and much more.
Brian de Staic ( 066-915 1298; www.briandestaic.com; Green St) This local jewellery designer’s exquisite modern Celtic work includes symbols, crosses and standing stones.
Dingle Record Shop ( 087 298 4550; Green St) Tucked under jazz venue Blue Zone, this crammed and jammed music store has all the good stuff you can’t download