Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [279]
ST MARY’S CATHEDRAL
Limerick’s ancient cathedral ( 061-310 293; Bridge St; admission free; 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat May-Nov, to 1pm Sat Dec-Apr) was founded in 1168 by Donal Mór O’Brien, king of Munster. Parts of the 12th-century Romanesque western doorway, nave and aisles survive, and there are splendid 15th-century black-oak misericords (support ledges for choristers), unique examples of their kind in Ireland. It’s worth checking if there are any musical events scheduled.
LIMERICK CITY MUSEUM
This small museum ( 061-417 826; Castle Lane; admission free; 10am-1pm & 2.15-5pm Tue-Sat) is beside King John’s Castle. Exhibits include Stone Age and Bronze Age artefacts, the civic sword, Limerick silverwork, and examples of Limerick’s lace and kid-glove manufacturing. Tough times in the late 19th century are also covered.
THOMOND PARK STADIUM
From 1995 until 2007, the Munster rugby team (www.munsterrugby.ie) was undefeated in this legendary stadium, which was massively rebuilt in 2008, the year they won the Heineken European Cup for the second time. You can visit the museum ( 061-421 100; www.thomondpark.ie; adult/child €7/5; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) and go on a tour (combined ticket adult/child €12/10) of what is called the ‘hallowed ground’ (a phrase used by a lot of stadiums worldwide). During matches the stadium is known a) for its noise and b) for its deathly quiet when someone is about to kick for goal. It is an easy 1km walk northwest of the centre along High St.
Tours
A local development group runs two-hour walking tours ( 087 635 3648; per person €10). One popular tour visits locations mentioned in Angela’s Ashes, starting and ending at the tourist office on Arthur’s Quay (tour starts at 2.30pm). The second historical tour begins at 11am. Confirm both with the tourist office.
One-hour open-top bus tours ( 061-430 9090, 061-317 522; adult/child €12/5; hourly 9.15am-3.45pm Mar-Oct) depart from in front of the Court House on Merchant’s Quay.
Sleeping
Try to find a place to stay near the city centre, so you can walk around and enjoy the nightlife. Otherwise you’ll be on or near approach roads, in which case you may opt for something further afield in, for example, Bunratty, which will be more bucolic.
BUDGET
Jamaica Inn Holiday Hostel ( 061-369 220; www.jamaicainn.ie; Mount Levers, Sixmilebridge, Co Clare; dm €19-20, d €60; ) A good option 13km northwest of the city. Rooms range from singles with private bath to six-bed dorms. There are bus connections daily (except Sunday) to Limerick and Shannon Airport.
Courtbrack Accommodation ( 061-302 500; www.courtbrackaccom.com; Courtbrack Ave; dm/s/d €24/30/52; Jun-Aug; ) A few minutes’ walk along Dock Rd from the Shannon Bridge. Rates at this spiffy, red-hued place include a light breakfast, and there’s a kitchen and laundry.
MIDRANGE
Alexandra Tce on O’Connell Ave (which runs south from O’Connell St) has several midrange B&Bs. Ennis Rd, leading northwest towards Shannon, also has a selection, although most are at least 1km from the centre.
Glen Eagles ( 061-455 521; gleneaglesbandb@eircom.net; 12 Vereker Gardens, Ennis Rd; r €45-70; Feb-Nov; ) Across the river from the city centre, Glen Eagles is on a peaceful cul-de-sac and has four decent-sized, comfortable rooms and a cheerful welcome.
Woodfield House Hotel ( 061-453 022; www.woodfieldhousehotel.com; Ennis Rd; r €45-90; ) The 26 rooms here are of a typical modern motel standard (aka blandly comfortable) and the location, only a 1.25km walk from the centre is a plus (although the road is busy). The real treat are the picnic tables for enjoying a refreshment outside.
Coonagh Lodge ( 061-327 050; www.coonaghlodge.com; s/d from €45/65; ) A cute little B&B with a traditional high-pitched roof. The