Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [280]
Trebor House ( 061-454 632; www.treborhouse.com; Ennis Rd; s/d from €45/70; May-Sep; ) The McSweeney family offer a warm welcome in this classic suburban town house (note the pebble-dash exterior), a 10-minute walk from the city centre. The five rooms have a pastel-green charm.
Railway Hotel ( 061-413 653; www.railwayhotel.ie; Parnell St; s/d from €45/80;) Right across from the bus and train station, this long-established hotel is busy and shows the wear, although the location is as central as you can get. The 30 rooms are not huge and will remind you of a time when everybody smoked.
George ( 061-460 400; www.thegeorgeboutiquehotel.com; O’Connell St; s/d from €80/90; ) This sleek place has a popular atrium lobby and small terrace above the busy streets of the city centre. The design looks like something out of a Sunday supplement – all warm colours with luxurious touches. The 127 rooms have wi-fi, iPod docks, evening cordials and more.
Eating
Seafood is the thing in Limerick and there are a few notable options. At weekends be sure to book for the better places. George’s Quay has some continental flair and tables along the water. Locals call it ‘first-date row’.
Pick from organic produce and local foods like cheese at the Milk Market ( 061-415 180; Cornmarket Row; 8am-2.30pm), a traditional farmers market held in Limerick’s old market buildings. Look for the soups by Forbidden Food.
BUDGET
Cafe Noir ( 061-411 222; Robert St; snacks & meals €3-12; 8am-6pm) Gorgeous tarts lead the way at this bakery and lunch place, which also offers gem-like pastries, salads, quiches and more. The coffees are just what you need when it rains.
DuCarts ( 061-312 662; Hunt Museum, Rutland St; meals €5-12; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) Window seats overlooking a grassy verge and the Shannon are bathed with light even on the gloomiest of days. The food does the cultural surroundings proud, with a changing selection of salads, soups, sandwiches and hot dishes.
Wild Onion ( 061-440 055; High St; mains €7-10; 8am-4pm Tue-Sat) Get your American on at this blue-fronted cafe and bakery known for its full-bore American breakfasts (that means no black pudding, but plenty of hash browns). It’s popular with local expats who know that once you’ve gone Reuben you never go back.
MIDRANGE
Sage Cafe ( 061-409 458; 67-68 Catherine St; meals €7-15; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Hardscrabble my arse. After you’ve followed the crowds to this amazing lunch spot, you’ll enjoy some of the best food in Ireland. The decor says it all: superb taste that doesn’t call attention to itself. Breakfast treats and baked goods give way to a changing line-up of lunch sandwiches, salads and hot plates. And then there are those desserts…
Locke Bar ( 061-413 733; George’s Quay; mains €9-15) When the Atlantic gusts abate, enjoy the tables waterside at this sprawling cafe-cum-bar or get lost in the maze of rooms and bars. Enjoy the pub menu of pasta, fish and chips, burgers and more amid the scrum, or in more refined quarters upstairs.
Copper & Spice ( 061-313 620; 2 Cornmarket Row; meals €12-20; 5-10pm Tue-Sun) Your first thought on entering: ‘What an incredible smell!’ Spice indeed. Indian and Thai dishes team up to bring some much-needed spice to town. The surrounds are stylish.
Moll Darby’s ( 061-411 511; George’s Quay; mains €12-30; noon-2pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-10pm daily) Exposed brick, dark wood and bundles of nautical schlock make Moll’s an attractive and atmospheric choice on George’s Quay. The red-checked tablecloths add a jaunty air, which will only intensify as you slurp down the superb oysters and other seasonal seafood delights.
TOP END
Market Square Brasserie ( 061-316 311; 74 O’Connell St; mains from €20; 6-10pm Tue-Sat) Tucked away in the basement of an attractive Georgian house, the food here is creatively prepared and artfully presented. Local purveyors supply the best produce, meats and seafood for an ever-changing menu. Service is smooth,