Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [296]
Getting There & Away
There’s no public transport to Fethard but it would make a pleasant cycle from Cashel, 15km to the west.
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CARRICK-ON-SUIR
pop 5700
The unassuming market town of Carrick-on-Suir (Carraig na Siúire), 20km east of Clonmel, boasted twice its present population during the late-medieval period, when it was a centre of the brewing and wool industries. The modern town makes a good pit stop – if for no other reason than to escape the local traffic and Byzantine traffic patterns.
Carrick-on-Suir was quick to honour local boy Sean Kelly, one of the world’s greatest cyclists, in the late 1980s. The town square bears his name, as does the sports centre. Carrick is also the birthplace of the singing Clancy Brothers, who, with Tommy Makem and assorted Aran Island sweaters, did much to popularise folk music in the 1960s.
From Carrick-on-Suir, the East Munster Way (opposite) winds west to Clonmel before heading south into Waterford.
Information
Main St has banks, ATMs and other services ranged along it.
The tourist office ( 051-640 200; www.carrickonsuir.ie; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri May-Sep, to 4pm Tue-Fri Oct-Apr) is off Main St, through a narrow entranceway. An old church houses this helpful office as well as a Heritage Centre. Get info here on the East Munster Way.
Sights
Carrick-on-Suir was once the property of the Butlers, the Earls of Ormond, who built Ormond Castle ( 051-640 787; www.heritageireland.ie; Castle St; admission free; 10am-6pm May-Sep) on the banks of the river in the 14th century. Anne Boleyn, the second of Henry VIII’s wives, may have been born here, though other castles also claim this worthy distinction, possibly hoping to boost their own sales of knick-knacks celebrating the beheaded. The Elizabethan mansion next to the castle was built by the 10th Earl of Ormond, Black Tom Butler, in long-term anticipation of a visit by his cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, who rather thoughtlessly never turned up.
Some rooms in this Dúchas-owned edifice have fine 16th-century stuccowork, especially the Long Gallery with its depictions of Elizabeth and the Butler coat of arms.
Sleeping & Eating
Main St has numerous lunch cafes, and pubs with food.
Fatima House ( 051-640 298; www.fatimahouse.com; John St; s/d from €40/75) Located about 500m west of the Greenside bus stop, this B&B is housed in a stark-fronted 100-year-old town house. Furnishings have been accumulating in the rooms for that entire time.
Carraig Hotel ( 051-641 455; www.carraighotel.com; Main St; s/d from €70/100; ) Dominating the centre of town, the Carraig is one of those classic Irish hotels of an undefinable age that has spread over a few buildings and sprawls from room to room. Its bars and eating areas are done up in timeless wood; the 24 rooms are surprisingly modern. Food focuses on simple presentations of steaks, roasts and fresh fish (meals €8 to €25).
The local farmers market ( 10am-2pm Fri) is held weekly in the Heritage Centre yard, off of Main St.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses stop at Greenside, the park beside the N24 road. Follow New St north from Main St, then turn right.
Bus Éireann ( 051-879 000; www.buseireann.ie) has numerous buses serving Carrick-on-Suir. The Limerick–Waterford line serves Cahir and Clonmel (€6, 25 minutes) up to nine times daily. There’s also a frequent service to Kilkenny (€8, 45 minutes).
TRAIN
The station is north of Greenside, off Cregg Rd. From Monday to Saturday, the Limerick Junction–Waterford train stops three times daily in each direction.
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THURLES & AROUND
pop 6900
Thurles (Durlas) is a busy market town, 22km north of Cashel. It was founded by the Butler family during the 13th