Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [297]
The centre of town is the long, spacious and traffic-choked Liberty Sq. The visitor centre ( 0504-22702; www.tipperary.gaa.ie; exhibits adult/child €4/2; 10am-5.30pm) can be found at Lár na Páirc (Slievenamon Rd), the shop of the GAA, which is sick with the blue, black and gold of the local team.
The highlight of the area is the Cistercian Holy Cross Abbey ( 9am-8pm), 6km southwest of Thurles beside the River Suir. The large buildings that survive today date from the 15th century, although the abbey was founded in 1168. Look for the ornately carved sedilia near the altar and pause to appreciate the early form of ‘stadium seating’. The abbey contains two relics of the True Cross of varying pedigree. A bookshop is open irregular hours.
Your only reason to visit Thurles may be to pass through the train station on the busy Dublin–Limerick Junction train line as part of a trip to Cashel.
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ROSCREA
pop 5600
A castle is the star of this pleasant little town on the journey between Dublin and the west on the N7. Roscrea owes its beginnings to a 5th-century monk, St Cronan, who set up a way station for the travelling poor. Most of the historical structures are on or near the main street, Castle St. The town is rescued from the busy traffic of the N7 by a bypass.
Roscrea Castle, a 13th-century stone edifice right in the town centre, was started in 1213 and is remarkably intact. There are two fortified stone towers, surrounded by walls. Look closely and you can see where the original drawbridge was installed. Inside the courtyard stands Damer House, the Queen Anne–style residence of the Damer family. Built in the early 18th century, it no doubt had few problems with burglars owing to its location.
Inside you’ll find the Roscrea Heritage Centre ( 0505-21850; www.heritageireland.ie; Castle St; adult/concession €4/2; 10am-6pm Apr-Aug, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun Sep-Mar), which contains some interesting exhibitions, including one on the medieval monasteries of the midlands and another on early-20th-century farming life. There’s a peaceful walled garden by the house.
Up to 12 Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie) buses stop at Roscrea between Dublin (€10, 2½ hours) and Limerick (€7, 1½ hours). Three buses daily serve Cashel (€10.50, 1¼ hours).
Dublin trains require a connection in Ballybrophy.
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NENAGH & AROUND
Nenagh is a pretty place with a violent past. It was a garrison town in the 19th century and before that it was the site of a dominant castle. You can see evidence of all this just north of the centre on O’Rahilly St; look for the tall steeple of St Mary’s of the Rosary church. Nenagh Castle looks like the prototype for the rook in chess and is surrounded by cawing crows and coughing teens. The tower dates from the 13th century and has impossibly thick walls.
Nearby, the civic centre is an imposing complex of dark-stone buildings from the 19th century, including an old gaol. Next door stands the 1840 Round House, a pretty stone building that holds the Nenagh Heritage Centre ( 067-31610; www.nenagh.ie; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, also 10am-5pm Sat May-Aug), which has tourist info and genealogy services.
There are some excellent places for food in Nenagh.
Country Choice ( 067-32596; 25 Kenyon St; meals €6-12; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of really great Irish artisan foods. Sample the beautiful lunch menu in the cafe or just have a coffee but ready yourself to browse the extensive deli area with homemade preserves, farmhouse cheeses and myriad other treats. Baskets of fruit and even eggs sit out front of the store, luring you in. A chat with the owners, Peter and Mary, is like a grad-school course in Irish foods.
Nenagh is the gateway