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Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [299]

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St, radiate from there. There has been an effort to create some pedestrian quarters around Parnell St with mixed results. The large but fairly mundane cathedral (1843) is at the southern end of O’Connell St; its spire is a useful landmark from afar.

The N18 bypass east of the city lets traffic between Limerick and Galway whiz right past, although trips to the coast still take you through the centre.

Information

BOOKSHOPS

Abbey News Agency (36 Abbey St) Good selection of newspapers. Also sells Ordnance Survey maps.

Ennis Bookshop ( 065-682 9000; 13 Abbey St) Excellent independent shop for maps and books of local interest.

O’Mahony’s ( 065-682 8355; Merchant Sq) Large local branch of 100-year-old Limerick store.

INTERNET ACCESS

Linkserve ( 065-689 3767; 4A Lower Market St; per hr €2; 10.30am-9pm) Head upstairs for surfing and internet calling.

LIBRARIES

De Valera Library ( 065-682 1616; www.clarelibrary.ie; Harmony Row; 10am-5.30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 8pm Tue & Fri, to 2pm Sat) Offers one hour of free internet access. Also has dedicated email screens for short-term use.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Cassidy’s Pharmacy ( 065-682 8765; 10 O’Connell St; 8am-6pm)

MONEY

Banks on the Square change money; ATMs are common.

POST

The post office is on Bank Pl, northwest of the Square.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Ennis tourist office ( 065-682 8366; www.visitennis.ie; Arthur’s Row; 9.30am-5.30pm daily Jul & Aug, 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat Mar-Jun & Sep-Dec, 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri Jan & Feb) Very helpful and efficient. Can book accommodation for a €4 fee; lots of shamrock-embellished gifts.

Sights

MONUMENTS & SCULPTURES

In the town centre (the Square) is a Daniel O’Connell monument. His election to the British parliament by a huge majority in 1828 forced Britain to lift its bar on Catholic MPs and led to the Act of Catholic Emancipation a year later. The ‘Great Liberator’ stands on an extremely high column, so far above the rest of us you would hardly know he was there.

Éamon de Valera was the parliamentary representative for Clare from 1917 to 1959; a bronze statue of him stands near Ennis courthouse.

Numerous modern sculptures can be found scattered around the town centre. Works include the Weathered Woman on Old Barrack St, which is both interesting and provides a handy place to sit. Get the Ennis Sculpture Trail map from the tourist office.

ENNIS FRIARY

Just north of the Square is Ennis Friary ( 065-682 9100; Abbey St; adult/child €2/1; 9.30am-6.30pm May-Sep). It was founded by Donnchadh Cairbreach O’Brien, king of Thomond, sometime between 1240 and 1249, but a lot of what you see now was completed in the 14th century. Although it pales against the ruins found elsewhere in Clare, it does have a graceful five-section window dating from the late 13th century, and a McMahon tomb (1460) with alabaster panels depicting scenes from the Passion.

CLARE MUSEUM

Sharing the same building as the tourist office is this diverting little museum ( 065-682 3382; Arthur’s Row; admission free; 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep). The ‘Riches of Clare’ exhibition tells the story of Clare from 8000 years ago to the present day using original artefacts grouped into four themes: earth, power, faith and water. It also recounts the development of the submarine by Clare-born JP Holland, who’s good for at least two of the themes.

Tours

The best way to explore Ennis is on foot and the best way to appreciate it is with an expert. Ennis Walking Tours ( 087 648 3714; www.enniswalkingtours.com; tour €8; 11am Mon, Tue, Thu-Sat May-Oct) offers excellent walks that leave from in front of the tourist office Click here.

Festivals & Events

Fleadh Nua ( 065-682 4276; www.fleadhnua.com) A lively traditional music festival held in late May, with singing, dancing and workshops.

Ennis Trad Festival (www.ennistradfestival.com) Traditional music is performed in venues across town for one week in early November.

Sleeping

Ennis has a great variety of places to stay. There are modest B&Bs

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