Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [300]
Alas, the long-running Abbey Tourist Hostel on Harmony Row closed in 2006 and there’s no sign of a replacement for the budget market.
MIDRANGE
Aín Karem ( 065-682 0024; ainkaremennis@eircom.net; 7 Tulla Rd; s/d from €45/70; ) Northeast of the centre, this modern two-storey house is pleasantly furnished and rooms are standard size. The neighbourhood has several other B&Bs; it’s a 10-minute walk to the centre.
Sycamore House ( 065-682 1343; smsfitz@gofree.indigo.ie; Tulla Rd; s/d from €45/70; ) Right across from Aín Karem, there are four modest rooms in this B&B in a modern, unassuming, typical one-storey Irish house. It’s clean and friendly – what more do you want?
Banner Lodge ( 065-682 4224; www.bannerlodge.com; Market St; s/d from €45/80) You can’t really get more central than this, and at great value. Some of the eight rooms are pretty tight, but given the location it is a fair trade-off. The decor in the second-storey inn is dominated by the bold blue carpet. Service is minimal.
Carbery House ( 065-682 4046; Kilrush Rd; s/d €50/90; ) About a 10-minute walk south from the centre, this orderly and very modern B&B has two fireplaces to provide atmosphere. Early arrivals from the airport are OK, space permitting, and credit cards are accepted.
Four Winds ( 065-682 9831; fourwinds.ennis@eircom.net; Clare Rd; s/d from €50/80; mid-Mar–mid-Oct; ) This is a pleasant two-storey house with decent rooms. There’s a nice back garden, while the front is screened by a low wall and hedge.
Queens Hotel ( 065-682 8963; www.irishcourthotels.com; Abbey St; s/d from €65/90; ) This corner hotel is perfect for those seeking an anonymous stay. The 48 modern rooms are standard-hotel in design, with a timeless red and beige motif. The exterior hints at the building’s grand past.
Newpark House ( 065-682 1233; www.newparkhouse.com; s/d from €65/120; Easter-Oct; ) A vine-covered country house dating from 1650, Newpark is 2km north of Ennis. The six rooms have a mix of furnishings old and new; garden views are a fine thing to wake up to. To get here, go along Tulla Rd to Scarriff road (R352) and turn right at the Roselevan Arms.
TOP END
Old Ground Hotel ( 065-682 8127; www.flynnhotels.com; O’Connell St; s/d from €90/150; ) The lobby at this local institution is always a scene: old friends sprawl on the sofas, deals are cut at the tables and ladies from the neighbouring church’s altar society exchange gossip over tea. Parts of this rambling landmark date back to the 1800s. The 83 rooms vary greatly in size and decor – don’t hesitate to inspect a few.
Eating
Ennis has a good mix of restaurants, cafes and bars that serve food.
Puccino’s ( 065-689 1665; 41 O’Connell St; snacks €2-6; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat) This tiny nook on the main drag has a full coffee bar and blends up fresh fruit smoothies and juices that may help digest that lump of black pudding from breakfast.
Ennis Gourmet Store ( 065-684 3314; 1 Old Barrack St; snacks €4-10; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Enjoy a warm drink from the full coffee and tea bar at one of this little gem’s outside tables. There’s a range of soups, sandwiches and hot specials plus a deli case of Irish cheeses, preserves, good wines and more.
Poet’s Corner Bar ( 065-682 8127; Old Ground Hotel, O’Connell St; meals €6-14; 12.30-9pm) This famous old bar has a deserved reputation for its traditional dishes, especially the oh-so-fresh fish and chips. Service is slick.
Numero Uno Pizzeria ( 065-684 1740; 3 Barrack St; meals €8-16; noon-10pm) You expect the wine to come in bottles covered with straw at this timeless pizza and pasta joint. The pies are thin and loaded up with traditional ingredients. The pastas are hearty and filling. Watch half of Ennis pop in for a pizza-to-go from the dining area.
Brogan’s ( 065-682 9859; 24 O’Connell St; meals €8-20; 10am-10pm) The peas at this popular old pub are always well cooked, and the supply of spuds never-ending.