Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [301]
Kasturi ( 065-684 8060; Carmody St; meals €10-20; noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) Indian cuisine is excellent at this most accommodating of restaurants. The staff are gracious, constantly serving the large dining room with a mannered feel. Classics such as tandoori chicken are two cuts above the norm.
Town Hall Cafe ( 065-682 8127; O’Connell St; lunches €6-14, dinners €20-35; 10am-5pm & 6-9.30pm) Adjacent to, and affiliated with, the Old Ground Hotel, this excellent bistro is in the stylishly resurrected old town hall. High ceilings allow large artwork, while the spare settings don’t compete with the food on the ever-changing menu. Look for local ingredients, especially seafood, taking front and centre stage.
The enormous Dunnes Stores ( 065-684 0700; Ennis Town Centre Mall; 24hr) has everything from prepared foods to groceries, while the Ennis farmers market (Upper Market St car park; 8am-2pm Fri) lures some of Clare’s best producers.
Drinking & Entertainment
As the capital of a renowned music county, Ennis is not short of pubs with trad music. In fact, this is the best reason to stay here. Where’s best changes often; check the weekly Clare People for good listings.
PUBS
Cíaran’s Bar ( 065-684 0180; Francis St) Slip into this small place by day and you can be just another geezer pondering a pint. At night there’s usually trad music. We bet you wish you had a copy of the Guinness mural out front!
Brogan’s ( 065-682 9859; 24 O’Connell St) On the corner of Cooke’s Lane, Brogan’s sees a fine bunch of musicians rattling even the stone floors from about 9pm Monday to Thursday, plus even more nights in summer. It’s a big pub that stretches a long way back from the street.
Brandon’s Bar ( 065-682 8133; O’Connell St) This place still holds its own for trad sessions, on Monday nights especially (from about 9.30pm). Brandon’s also stages other live music, including blues and rock.
John O’Dea ( 065-682 4539; 66 O’Connell St) Close to Brandon’s, this plain-tile-fronted pub is a hideout for local musicians serious about their trad sessions.
Cruise’s Pub ( 065-684 1800; Abbey St) This friendly bar has a long side courtyard that’s perfect for enjoying a fresh-air pint in the shadow of the old friary. There are trad music sessions most nights from 9.30pm.
McQ’s ( 065-682 4608; 78 Parnell St) Aromatic peat fires warm this cosy pub that’s a haven on a rainy day. There’s good food and a few simple B&B rooms upstairs.
Poet’s Corner Bar ( 065-682 8127; Old Ground Hotel, O’Connell St) The old hotel pub can have some massive trad sessions on Fridays.
Mossy Sullivan’s (15 Parnell St) Behind the green door lies an old pub that’s quiet for much of the day. The candlelit tables are perfect for planning your journey in convivial climes.
Library Bar (Abbey St) Trendy bar/club with a small patio sheltered by shrubs where you can text your crew to come join you. A few books really are placed around the edgy, moody interior, with lots of primary-colour backlights behind the bar. Open till 2am at weekends.
VENUES
Cois na hAbhna ( 065-682 0996; www.coisnahabhna.ie; Gort Rd) This pilgrimage point for traditional music and culture is housed in a custom-built pentagonal hall 1.5km north of town along the N18. It has frequent performances and a full range of classes in dance and music. The archive is a resource centre and a library of Irish traditional music, song, dance and folklore relating mainly to County Clare; books and recordings are on sale.
Glór ( 065-684 3103; www.glor.ie; Friar’s Walk) Clare’s cultural centre is in a striking modern building. Art, traditional music, theatre, dance, photography and film are some of the programs offered. There’s a strong Irish bias, but international influences are celebrated.
Shopping
Ennis has the best shopping in the county; stock up on essentials in the vast Ennis Town Centre Mall, with its Dunnes Stores, just behind O’Connell St. Look for a discreet passage in. On Saturday