Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [302]
Down a little alley, browse the terrific stock of Custy’s Music Shop ( 065-682 1727; www.custysmusic.com; off O’Connell St) for Irish music, instruments, other musical items and general info about the local scene. Has a shop on the web as well.
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DETOUR: REAL BEER
A splendid antidote to Ireland’s dismal beer scene (yeah, we know about Guinness but what about some variety, huh?) can be found right at the intersection of the Ennistymon (N85) and the Kilfenora (R481) roads in Inagh, 16km northeast of Ennis. Biddy Early Brewery ( 065-683 6742; www.beb.ie) is a rarity for the Emerald Isle: a great microbrewery serving its own range of beers. The Black Biddy Irish Stout recalls every bit of bold flavour that’s been mass-marketed out of the corporate stouts. All beers are made with natural ingredients and there’s often seasonal specials like Buzzy Biddy, an organic honey beer perfect for long summer nights. Enjoy a pint in the airy pub or outside at tables; there’s food most months. Ask about the Biddy Early legend and you’ll understand why this detour could be a one-way trip.
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Getting There & Away
BUS
Bus Éireann ( 065-682 4177; www.buseireann.ie) services operate from the bus station beside the train station. Buses run from Ennis to Cork (€14, three hours, nine daily); Doolin (€11, 1½ hours, three daily) via Corofin, Ennistymon, Lahinch and Liscannor; Galway (€9, 1½ hours, hourly) via Gort; Limerick (€8.50, 40 minutes, hourly) via Bunratty; and Shannon Airport (€6.50, 50 minutes, hourly). To reach Dublin, connect through Limerick.
TRAIN
Irish Rail (www.irishrail.ie) trains from Ennis station ( 065-684 0444) comprise nine daily to Limerick (€9, 40 minutes), where you can connect to trains to places further afield like Dublin. At time of research it was expected that the line between Ennis and Galway would be reopened in late 2009 after a massive rebuilding program.
Getting Around
Call Burren Taxis ( 065-682 3456) for a taxi, or catch one at the stands by the train station and beside the Daniel O’Connell Monument.
Tierney’s Cycles & Fishing ( 086 803 0369; 17 Abbey St; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) has well-maintained mountain bikes costing €20/80 per day/week to hire, including helmet, lock and repair kit. Staff will recommend routes where trucks are less likely to squash you.
Most people get their rental cars at Shannon Airport. Parking is fairly good in Ennis. There’s a big car park behind the tourist office in Friar’s Walk and one alongside the river just off Abbey St. It’s pay and display for about €1 per hour.
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AROUND ENNIS
North of Ennis is the early Christian site of Dysert O’Dea; to the southeast are several fine castles. Note that much of the county can be enjoyed as a day trip from Ennis.
Local and express buses cover most areas around Ennis, but their frequency varies; many buses run only May to September (some only July and August) and on certain days. Before making plans confirm times and destinations with Bus Éireann ( 065-682 4177; www.buseireann.ie) at the Ennis bus station.
Dysert O’Dea
You can feel the past as you navigate the narrow tracks with grass in the middle to Dysert O’Dea (Map), where St Tola founded a monastery in the 8th century. The church and high cross, the White Cross of St Tola, date from the 12th or 13th century. The cross depicts Daniel in the lion’s den on one side and a crucified Christ above a bishop carved in relief on the other. Look for carvings of animal and human heads in a semicircle on the southern doorway of the Romanesque church. There are also the remains of a 12m-high round tower.
In 1318 the O’Briens, who were kings of Thomond, and the Norman de Clares of Bunratty fought a pitched battle nearby, which the O’Briens won, thus postponing the Anglo-Norman conquest of Clare for some two centuries. The 15th-century O’Dea Castle nearby houses the Clare Archaeology Centre ( 065-683 7401; www.dysertcastle.com; adult/child €4/2.50; 10am-6pm