Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [303]
East of Dysert O’Dea, you can wander along a lovely river in Dromore Wood (Map; 065-683 7166; www.heritageireland.ie; Ruan; admission free; visitor centre 10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep). This Dúchas nature reserve encompasses some 400 hectares as well as the ruins of the 17th-century O’Brien Castle, two ring forts and the site of Kilakee church.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Dysert O’Dea is 1.7km off the Corofin road (R476), 11km north of Ennis. Dromore Wood is 8km east of Dysert, off the N18.
Bus Éireann ( 065-682 4177) generally runs one bus daily from Ennis to Doolin, which will stop along the R476.
Quin
pop 460
Quin (Chuinche), a tiny village 10km southeast of Ennis, was the site of the Great Clare Find of 1854 – the most important discovery of prehistoric gold in Ireland. Greed and need beat out any good deeds, and only a few of the several hundred torcs, gorgets and other pieces, discovered by labourers working on the Limerick–Ennis railway, made it to the National Museum in Dublin; most were sold and melted down. The source of this treasure, and much of ancient Ireland’s gold, may have been the Wicklow Mountains on the east coast.
The Franciscan friary Quin Abbey ( 065-684 4084) was founded in 1433 using part of the walls of an older de Clare castle built in 1280. Despite many periods of persecution, Franciscan monks lived here until the 19th century. The last friar, Father Hogan, who died in 1820, is buried in one corner. The splendidly named Fireballs MacNamara, a notorious duellist and member of the region’s ruling family, is also buried here. An elegant belfry rises above the main body of the abbey, and you can climb the narrow spiral staircase to look down on the fine cloister and surrounding countryside. The site is always open and you can ponder the encroaching modern graves.
Beside the friary is the 13th-century Gothic Church of St Finghin.
Numerous cafes and pubs line the quiet streets near the ruins. On the Ennis side of the village, look for Zion Coffee House ( 065-682 5417; Ennis Rd; meals €6-20; 8am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat). There are good views of the back of the abbey and you can fortify yourself with excellent coffees, teas and juices. During the day breakfast and fresh, creative lunches are available.
Knappogue Castle
About 3km southeast of Quin is Knappogue Castle & Walled Garden ( 061-368 103; www.shannonheritage.com; adult/child €8/3.50; 10am-5pm early May-Sep). It was built in 1467 by the MacNamaras, who held sway over a large part of Clare from the 5th to the mid-15th century and like early fast-food franchisers littered the region with 42 castles. Knappogue’s walls are intact, and it has a fine collection of period furniture and fireplaces. The formal gardens have been restored.
When Oliver Cromwell came to Ireland in 1649, he used Knappogue as a base, which is one of the reasons it was spared from destruction. The MacNamara family regained the castle after the Restoration in 1660, and since then windows and other features have been added to make it more ‘liveable’.
Knappogue also hosts touristy medieval banquets ( 061-360 788; adult/child €57/28.50; 6.30pm May-Oct). Unlike Bunratty Castle, Knappogue provides knives and forks.
Craggaunowen
For more ancient Irish heritage tarted up for the masses, visit Craggaunowen ( 061-367 178; www.shannonheritage.com; adult/child €9.40/5.50; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, till 6pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep). Around 6km southeast of Quin, the complex includes re-created ancient farms, dwellings such as a crannóg (artificial island) and a 5th-century ring fort, plus real artefacts including a 2000-year-old oak road. Craggaunowen Castle is a small, well-preserved MacNamara fortified house. With lots of animals like snot-nosed boars, this is a good place for kids who like dirty critters.
Craggaunowen has a pleasant little cafe. Nearby Cullaun