Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [304]
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EASTERN & SOUTHEASTERN CLARE
Away from the Atlantic coast and the rugged Burren uplands, Clare rolls gently eastward through low-lying green countryside given emphasis by the occasional range of smooth hills. The county’s eastern boundary is the River Shannon and the long, wriggling inland waterway of Lough Derg, which stretches 48km from Portumna in County Galway to just south of Killaloe. Lakeside villages such as Mountshannon seem in a different world from the rugged, evocative west of Clare, but this is a delightful, intimate countryside of water, woods and panoramic views. Southeastern Clare, where the Shannon swells into its broad estuary, is a plain landscape dotted with farms and small villages. Overhyped Bunratty Castle is a major attraction and nearby Shannon Airport is an important entry point.
This part of Clare, along with portions of County Limerick, is marketed by Shannon Heritage, which has an excellent website – www.shannonheritage.com – for info.
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SHANNON AIRPORT
Ireland’s second-largest airport used to be a vital fuelling stop for piston-engine planes lacking the range to make it between the North American and European mainlands. Today Shannon (Sionainn) is a low-stress gateway to the region. It’s an ideal entry point for counties Clare, Galway, Kerry, Limerick and others in the region.
About 3km from the airport, Shannon town, built to serve airport workers, has the feel of one of those old planned Soviet industrial cities – albeit with more reliable hot water. Don’t linger.
Information
Shannon Town Centre, an enclosed shopping mall off the N19, has banks, basic stores and fast food.
The airport terminal ( 061-742 6666; www.shannonairport.com) has many facilities, including a nice, free observation area for those stuck waiting. Almost everything is on one level. You can park close to the terminal (€1 per 15 minutes); more remote areas are much cheaper.
Aer Rianta ( 061-712 000) This desk provides airport and flight information.
Bank of Ireland ( 061-471 100) Open from the first flight (about 6.30am) to 5.30pm; there are also currency exchanges and ATMs.
Internet access The terminal has free wi-fi throughout. Terminals are available outside the Hughes & Hughes Bookshop (€1.50 per 15 minutes).
Tourist office ( 061-471 664; www.shannonregiontourism.ie; 6.30am-6pm May-Sep, 7am-5.30pm Oct-Apr) Near the arrivals area, it’s a great first stop, with plenty of regional info, plus useful books and maps for sale. It also books rooms (€4 fee).
Sleeping & Eating
There’s B&B accommodation 3km from the airport in Shannon town but Ennis, Limerick and much prettier towns – even Bunratty – can be reached in 30 minutes. The airport terminal has one big, and often crowded, buffet-style restaurant.
Moloney’s B&B ( 061-364 185; 21 Coill Mhara St; s/d from €45/70) The four rooms at this cheery B&B in Shannon town offer a hassle-free welcome after a long flight. Coming from the airport, turn right off the N19 at the big roundabout by the town centre. Keep on past the centre and at a crossroads go left down a slip road. Continue left past a school and the Shannon Leisure Centre (which has a public pool). At the next junction go right, and then take the first left.
Park Inn Shannon Airport ( 061-471 122; www.parkinns.com; r €155; ) Wake up in one of the 114 generic hotel rooms here and you could be anywhere, which is the idea as the terminal is just across the parking lot. This is an option if you have an early flight and want to lose the rental car. Look for specials.
Getting There & Around
AIR
There are limited services across the Atlantic to North America, but travellers to the US can enjoy the great convenience of pre-clearance for customs and immigration before they leave Ireland, so there’s no waiting in queues once you arrive on the other side of the pond.
Airlines with direct flights to/from Shannon:
Aer Lingus ( 0818 365 000; www.aerlingus.ie) Dublin,