Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [307]
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KILLALOE & BALLINA
pop 1750
Facing each other across a narrow channel, Killaloe and Ballina are really one destination, even if they have very different personalities (and counties). A fine old 13-arch one-lane bridge spans the river, linking the pair. You can walk it in five minutes or drive it in about 20 (a Byzantine system of lights controls traffic).
Killaloe (Cill Da Lúa) is picturesque Clare at its finest. It lies on the western banks of lower Loch Deirgeirt, the southern extension of Lough Derg, where the lough narrows at one of the principal crossings of the River Shannon. The village lies snugly against the Slieve Bernagh Hills that rise abruptly to the west. The Arra Mountains create a fine balance to the east and all of Lough Derg is at hand. The village is also on the 180km East Clare Way.
Not as quaint as Killaloe, Ballina is in County Tipperary and actually manages to have some of the better pubs and restaurants. It lies at the end of a scenic drive from Nenagh along Lough Derg on the R494.
From Killaloe and Ballina, the Shannon is navigable all the way north to Lough Key in County Sligo; in summer the towns are jammed with weekend sailors.
Orientation & Information
In Ballina, Main St is the focus; it’s up the hill from the water. The busy narrow street running from the river on the Killaloe side is Bridge St, which turns right and becomes Main St.
The tourist office ( 061-376 866; Brian Boru Heritage Centre; 10am-6pm May-Oct) is on a tiny island off the bridge on the Killaloe side and shares space with the heritage centre and the library ( 061-376 062; 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am-5.30pm & 6.30-8pm Wed & Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), which has free internet access. For local info, try the town website (www.killaloe.ie).
The AIB bank at the bottom of Church St in Killaloe has an ATM.
There’s parking on both sides of the river and that’s just what you’ll want to do as soon as you arrive. Pretty as it is, the bridge is really a traffic nightmare, so park and walk. There are toilets on the Killaloe side in the car park.
Sights & Activities
Killaloe Cathedral (St Flannan’s Cathedral; 061-376 687; Limerick Rd) dates from the early 13th century and was built by the O’Brien family on top of a 6th-century church. Inside, magnificent carvings decorate the Romanesque southern doorway, next to which is the shaft of a stone cross, known as Thorgrim’s Stone. It dates from the early Christian period and is unusual in that it bears both the old Scandinavian runic and Irish Ogham scripts. In the cathedral grounds is St Flannan’s Oratory, of 12th-century Romanesque design.
The Brian Ború Heritage Centre ( 061-376 866; www.shannonheritage.com; Lock House, Killaloe; adult/child €3.35/1.75; 10am-5pm May-Sep) is named for the local boy who made good as the king who purportedly both unified Ireland and freed it from the Viking scourge. (Recently such claims have been ascribed to political spinmeisters.) The centre does much to celebrate the legends and has good displays about the nautical heritage of this patchwork of lakes and rivers.
For all your fishing needs go to TJ’s Angling Centre ( 061-376 009; Main St, Ballina). You can rent fishing tackle for €10 per day and catch your limit in free advice. It also organises fishing trips, although you can hook trout and pike right here in town.
The Spirit of Killaloe ( 086 814 0559; Bridge St, Killaloe; adult/child €10/6; 2.30pm May-Sep) does hour-long cruises of the waters.
Sleeping
B&Bs abound in the area, especially on the roads along the lough. Book ahead in summer.
Arkansas B&B ( 061-376 485; arkans@eircom.net; Main St, Ballina; s/d from €45/70) There are four basic rooms at this B&B only 300m from the bridge. And the name? The lovely owner says she once saw a fishing trawler named Arkansas and liked the sound of it.
Kincora House ( 061-376 149; www.kincorahouse.com; Church St, Killaloe; s/d from €45/70) Set in a town house