Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [308]
Lakeside Hotel ( 061-376 122; www.lakesidehotel.ie; Ballina; s/d from €70/120; ) In a great location on the Ballina side of the bridge, this gentrified waterfront hotel has several attractive public areas and good grounds for strolling. The 46 rooms vary greatly, prices work in direct ratio to view. All, however, let you use the way-fun 40m water slide.
Kincora Hall Hotel ( 061-376 000; www.kincorahall.com; Killaloe; s/d from €80/120) This handsome hotel sits right on the water and has its own marina. There’s a comfy away-from-it-all feel to everything; rooms are big and stylishly furnished, and there’s a plush library for relaxing (away from the weekend wedding parties). It’s 1.3km north of the bridge.
Eating & Drinking
Crotty’s ( 061-376 965; Bridge St, Killaloe; meals €8-18) The most atmospheric spot on the Clare side of the water, Crotty’s has picnic tables outside that you won’t want to leave, especially on long summer nights. Inside it could be the model for the perfect old pub anywhere (and it’s the real deal). Fish and chips and burgers rise above the norm, and the purveyors of the foods are listed.
Molly’s Bar & Restaurant ( 061-376 632; Ballina; meals €8-24; food served noon-10pm) Guarding the east flank of the bridge, this riverside pub has an alluring rooftop deck that puts you high above the coagulated traffic, and can get very busy. It offers Irish standards such as bacon and cabbage, plus pub classics like pizza and burgers. Weekend nights there’s a festival of live music and DJs.
River Run ( 061-376 805; www.riverruncafe.com; Main St, Ballina; mains €10-25; noon-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) Small, smart and stylish, this blue-fronted bistro has food as creative as the local art for sale on the walls. The selections are kept short, but always include good seafood (we like the roasted monkfish wrapped in Parma ham), meat and veggie options. The more casual lunch menu is served until closing.
Gooser’s Bar & Eating House ( 061-376 791; Main St, Ballina; dinner mains €18-28; noon-10pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-9.30pm Sun) Only the masses of fun-seekers on busy weekends diminish the Gooser’s experience. This is a hugely popular thatched pub, noted for its big selection of fish. Sailors make mirth and plough into the hefty seafood platter. Want to avoid a wait? Dine at the bar (meals €9.50 to €24).
Liam O’Riains ( 061-376 722; Main St, Ballina) At this grizzled, stone-faced old veteran, you’re greeted by a cow-eyed, 12kg pike mounted on a wall near the entrance – he’s an ugly mother. Everything else here, however, is lovely. Candles glow softly and windows overlook the river below.
The twin towns also have their farmers market ( 9am-4pm Sun) on the islet off the bridge on the Killaloe side. Get picnic goods all week long at the Italian-flavoured deli Ponte Vecchio ( 061-622 845; Killaloe; 11am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun), which makes darn good sandwiches and sells bottles of wine ready to be uncorked. It’s near the cathedral.
Getting There & Away
There are four Bus Éireann ( 061-313 333) services a day Monday to Saturday from Limerick to Killaloe (€6.50, 45 minutes). The bus stop is outside the cathedral.
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KILLALOE TO MOUNTSHANNON
The journey north to Mountshannon along Lough Derg weaves along the placid waters; there are good viewpoints and picnic spots. To get to Mountshannon from Killaloe take the R463 to Tuamgraney, then turn east on the R352.
About 2km north of Killaloe, Beal Ború is an earthen mound or fort said to have been Kincora, the fabled palace of the famous Irish king Brian Ború, who, besides lending his name to bad Irish bars the world over, took on the Vikings at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014. Traces of Bronze Age settlement have been found. With its commanding view over Lough Derg, this was obviously a site of strategic importance (and if you see a big splash out in the lough it could be a cousin of the record