Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [309]
About 3.5km north of Killaloe is the University of Limerick Activity Centre ( 061-376 622; www.ulac.ie; Two Mile Gate). Here individuals and groups learn such water-based skills as canoeing, sailing and windsurfing. Land-based activities include archery, orienteering and forest games. Kayaking on Lough Derg is the top activity.
About 4.5km north of Killaloe is Cragliath Hill, which has another fort, Griananlaghna, named after Brian Ború’s great-grandfather, King Lachtna.
Tuamgraney, at the junction of the road to Mountshannon (R352), has an interesting old church, St Cronan’s, with a small museum, the East Clare Heritage Centre ( 061-921 351; www.eastclareheritage.com). Although the museum keeps erratic hours, the surrounding moody parish cemetery is a fascinating look into Irish genealogy.
If the serene waters have you feeling snoozy, you can hit the hay at Lantern House ( 061-923 034; www.lanternhouse.com; Scarriff Rd, Ogonnelloe; s/d from €50/80). About 10km north of Killaloe, and in a hillside location overlooking a sweep of Lough Derg, this glass-fronted six-room house is beautifully encircled by gardens of heather. At times, you can book evening meals.
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MOUNTSHANNON & AROUND
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More than just a ‘Tidy Town’ award-winning village, Mountshannon (Baile Uí Bheoláin) is good for an agreeable pause on the southwestern shores of Lough Derg. It was founded in 1742 by an enlightened landlord to house a largely Protestant community of flax workers.
The harbour is host to a fair number of fishing boats, and visiting yachts and cruisers in summer. It is the main centre for trips to Holy Island, one of Clare’s finest early Christian settlements.
There’s some great fishing around Mountshannon, mainly for brown trout, pike, perch and bream. Ask at your lodging about boat hire and equipment.
Holy Island
Lying 2km offshore from Mountshannon, Holy Island (Inis Cealtra) is the site of a monastic settlement thought to have been founded by St Cáimín in the 7th century. On the island you will see a round tower that is more than 27m tall (though missing its top storey). You’ll also find four old chapels, a hermit’s cell and some early Christian gravestones dating from the 7th to 13th centuries. One of the chapels has an elegant Romanesque arch and, inside, an Old Irish inscription that translates as ‘Pray for Tornog, who made this cross’.
The Vikings treated this monastery roughly in the 9th century, but under the crowd-pleasing protection of Brian Ború and others, it flourished.
At Mountshannon harbour in summer, you may find boats ( 086 874 9710) willing to take you over to the island or at least sail around it. The usual cost for this is adult/child €10/5. Look for a small kiosk offering boat rides and rentals.
Trips can also be arranged from Mountshannon by the staff at the East Clare Heritage Centre in Tuamgraney, when it is open.
Sleeping & Eating
Lakeside Holiday Park ( 061-927 225; www.lakesideireland.com; campsites €18; May-Oct) This spacious park has a fine lakeside location with 35 campsites and a few holiday trailers (€160 per two nights). It hires out boats and equipment for windsurfing, rowing and sailing. From Mountshannon, head north along the Portumna road (R352) for 2km and take the first turn-off on the right.
Hawthorn Lodge ( 061-927 120; www.mountshannon-clare.com; s/d from €50/70) Just 1km from the tidy joy that is Mountshannon, this equally tidy cottage is a modern and relaxed retreat. Set your electric blanket on high and you may never emerge into the chilly albeit fresh morning air.
Mountshannon Hotel ( 061-927 162; www.mountshannon-hotel.ie; Main St; s/d from €50/80; Mar-Oct) A big ol’ hound lies in the street in front of this old inn, which lies equally low in the quiet centre of town. The 14 rooms are as timeless as the dog out front, but smell much better. The pub is perfect for a relaxed pint and fish stories. The food is of the chicken kiev and lasagne school (mains €10 to € 20).
Sunrise B&B ( 061-927 343; www.sunrisebandb.com;