Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [320]
The estuaries along this northern coast are rich in bird life and frequently attract brent geese during the winter. More than 28 of Ireland’s 33 butterfly and moth species are found here, including one endemic species, the Burren green.
As they have elsewhere, modern farming and ‘land improvement’ grants have had their effect on the Burren. Weedkillers, insecticides and fertilisers favour grass and little else, often fatally undermining fragile ecological systems.
Walking
‘Green roads’ are the old highways of the Burren, crossing hills and valleys to some of the remotest corners of the region. Many of these unpaved ways were built during the Famine as part of relief work, while some date back possibly thousands of years. They’re now used mostly by hikers and the occasional farmer. Some are signposted, but there is an element of footpath blockage and neglect these days, in spite of much publicity being given to walking and to ‘official’ walking routes.
The Burren Way (see above) runs down through the Burren from Ballyvaughan to Doolin and then inland along mainly paved lanes, since cliff access around the Cliffs of Moher has been discouraged.
Guided nature, history, archaeology and wilderness walks are great ways to appreciate the Burren. Typically the cost of the walks starts at €15 and there are many options, including individual trips. Recommended guides:
Burren Guided Walks & Hikes ( 065-707 6100, 088 265 4810; www.burrenguidedwalks.com; Fanore) Long-time guide Mary Howard leads groups on a variety of itineraries.
Burren Wild ( 087 877 9565; www.burrenwalks.com; Bell Harbour) John Connolly offers a broad range of walks (from €10) and packages.
Getting There & Away
Various Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie) buses pass through the Burren. The main routes include one from Limerick and Ennis to Corofin, Ennistymon, Lahinch, Liscannor, the Cliffs of Moher, Doolin and Lisdoonvarna; another connects Galway with Ballyvaughan, Lisdoonvarna and Doolin. Usually there are one to three buses daily, with the most in summer.
Getting Around
By car you can cover a fair amount of the Burren in a day and have a chance to explore some of the many unnamed back roads. Mountain bikes are an excellent means of getting off the main roads; ask about rentals at your accommodation. Finally, walking is a superb way to appreciate the area’s subtle beauty and dramatic landscapes.
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DOOLIN
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Doolin gets plenty of press and chatter as a centre of Irish traditional music, owing to a couple of pubs that have sessions through the year. It’s also known for its setting – 6km north of the Cliffs of Moher and down near the ever-unsettled sea, the land is windblown, with huge rocks exposed by the long-vanished top soil.
Given all its attributes, you might be surprised when you realise that Doolin as it’s known barely exists. Rather, when you arrive you might be forgiven for exclaiming, ‘There’s no there here!’ For what’s called Doolin is really three infinitesimally small neighbouring villages. Fisherstreet is right on the water, Doolin itself is about 1km east on the little Aille River and Roadford is another 1km east. None has more than a handful of buildings, which results in a scattered appearance, without a centre.
Still, the area is hugely popular with backpackers and more affluent travellers (ex-backpackers with jobs). There are scores of excellent-value hostels and B&Bs widely spread about the rough landscape, and a pretty good scene – usually with music – develops in the local pubs at night. It’s also a place to get boats to the Aran Islands offshore.
Orientation
Doolin’s three parts are easily reached. From the north and Black Head the R479 first hits Roadford, with its hostels and two pubs. From the east, the R479 heads down into Doolin village