Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [321]
Information
There is no post office or bank. The closest ATM is in Ennistymon. Many places offer internet access and will change money. Try Doolin Internet Cafe (per 30min €3; 8am-7pm; ) in the Doolin Activity Lodge. It also does laundry and rents bikes (€15 per day).
For tourist info, ignore the sign outside the Hotel Doolin and check the tourism website (www.doolin-tourism.com) instead.
Activities
One of the most enjoyable ways to pass your time in Doolin is by walking the windswept country. Tracks and paths radiate in all directions; the Cliffs of Moher are 6km south.
The Doolin area is popular with cavers. The Fisherstreet Potholes are nearby, and Poll na gColm, 5km northeast of Lisdoonvarna, is Ireland’s longest cave, with more than 12km of mapped passageways; see www.cavingireland.org for more details. A little over 1km north of Roadford you’ll find Doolin Cave ( 065-707 5761; www.doolincave.ie; adult/child €15/8; 10am-5pm mid-Feb–Nov), which boasts an enormous stalactite that looks like a giant squid. The main entrance is at the Fisherstreet Potholes; tour times vary by season.
The rocks to the north of Doolin Harbour are honeycombed with an unusual system of undersea caves called the Green Holes of Doolin. They’re the longest known undersea caves in temperate waters. Nondivers can look, with care, into Hell, a large gash in the rocks, north of the harbour and about 50m from the sea. The gash is about 6m wide, and the heaving water at the bottom leads to a maze of submarine passages.
The unguided caves mentioned here require experience and full equipment.
Sleeping
Although a new place to stay seems to open in Doolin about as often as a drunken tourist yells, ‘One more time!’ after hearing ‘Danny Boy’ at a trad music session, you should still book ahead in summer.
BUDGET
The Doolin area has an excellent range of hostels, best in the west.
Rainbow Hostel ( 065-707 4415; www.rainbowhostel.net; Roadford; dm €16-19, d from €50; ) Many a friendship has started in the cosy lounge here. IHH-affiliated, this hostel has 30 beds and is in an old farmhouse by the road.
Nagles Doolin Caravan & Camping Park ( 065-707 4458; www.doolincamping.com; campsites from €17; Apr-Sep) With full-on views of the Cliffs of Moher, and Doolin only a short distance away, this is an appealing location. The 60 sites are open to the elements, so pin those pegs down.
Paddy’s Doolin Hostel ( 065-707 4421; www.doolinhostel.com; Fisherstreet, Doolin; from €17, d from €50; ) A modern, IHH-affiliated hostel. There are 90 beds in four- and eight-bed rooms; private rooms with bathrooms are also available. The sweaty indoor charms of Fisherstreet are steps away.
Aille River Hostel ( 065-707 4260; ailleriver@esatclear.ie; Roadford; dm €18-25, d €50; mid-Mar–Dec; ) In a picturesque spot by the river in the upper village, this converted 17th-century farmhouse is a great choice. There are turf fires, hot showers and a free laundry. This award-winning IHH hostel has 30 beds, along with campsites from €16.
MIDRANGE
Most places to stay in this price range are in houses on large plots of land. There are many choices: all of the following are well located for walking to the various permutations of Doolin. Without exception all are family run.
Doolin Cottage ( 065-707 4762; caroldoolin@hotmail.com; Roadford; s/d from €40/65; Mar-Nov) This charming little old house has a peaceful and friendly atmosphere and is good value. The three rooms vary greatly in size.
Doolin Activity Lodge ( 065-707 4888; www.doolinlodge.com; Fisherstreet; s/d from €45/70; ) This impressive purpose-built guesthouse occupies a large compound; the solid stone buildings are quite attractive. There are 14 nicely furnished rooms,