Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [322]
Riverfield House ( 065-707 4113; www.doolinlink.com/riverfield.html; Doolin; s/d from €45/70) Standing sturdy and back from the lane, this two-storey modern farmhouse offers stolid comfort. It has a few trees, too (most don’t). Rooms are large – you can have a king-size bed to roll around in all day.
O’Connors Guesthouse ( 065-707 4498; www.oconnorsdoolin.com; Doolin; s/d from €50/70; Feb-Nov) On a bend in the Aille, this working farm has 10 rooms of varying sizes in a rather plush farmhouse. Fresh-baked breads in the morning may put you in the mood to clean the barn (not possible actually). Commune with cattle instead. There are also campsites (€20).
Dubhlinn House ( 065-707 4770; www.dubhlinnhouse.com; Doolin; s/d from €50/75; ) This gleaming white B&B has good views down towards the water. The three rooms are simply decorated, while the breakfasts are lavish; American urbanites will recognise and appreciate the bagel BLT.
Atlantic View B&B ( 065-707 4189; www.doolinferries.com; Doolin Point; s/d €50/80) The perfect spot for guests who want their ocean up close and personal. This modern 12-room lodge is built right near the water, not far from the dock. Fisherstreet is a five-minute walk.
Cullinan’s Guest House ( 065-707 4183; www.cullinansdoolin.com; Doolin; s €50-80, d €80-100; ) The eight B&B rooms here are all of a high standard, with power showers and comfortable fittings. Right on the Aille (two rooms have balconies), it has a lovely back terrace for enjoying the views. The restaurant is one of the village’s best. The owner is a well-known local musician (see the boxed text, opposite).
Sea View House ( 065-707 4826; www.ireland-doolin.com; Fisherstreet; r €60-100; ) On high ground right above Fisherstreet village, this big house and its terrace have sweeping ocean views. The common lounge has a telescope for enjoying the vantage point. The four rooms have solid mahogany furnishings.
Eating
Doolin Cafe ( 065-707 4795; Roadford; mains €7-24; noon-3pm, 6-10pm) The cottage is small, but the flavours are big at this much-loved bistro. Salads, soups and sandwiches are the deal at lunch, while at night there’s a range of meats and seafoods with fusion preparations.
Cullinan’s ( 065-707 4183; 1-/2-/3-courses €25/32/40; Doolin; 6-9pm Thu-Tue) Attached to the guesthouse of the same name, this excellent restaurant offers delicious seafood as well as meat and poultry dishes. The short menu changes depending on what’s fresh, but is always creative. Bold combinations are favoured and there’s a long wine list.
For self-catering, the well-stocked Doolin Deli (Fisherstreet) is just down from O’Connor’s pub in Fisherstreet on the road to the pier. The pubs listed under Drinking all do good and reasonably priced versions of Irish classics like roasts, stews, fish and chips etc.
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JAMES CULLINAN, DOOLIN MUSICIAN
James Cullinan has been playing the fiddle for 35 years. He’s a noted musician in County Clare and can often be heard playing in Doolin’s pubs. ‘It’s a bit impromptu’, he says, ‘I’ll be out with friends, have two or three pints, hear some music and the next thing you know I’ve run home, got the fiddle and I’m back playing music.’ Unplanned, pint-fuelled sessions aside, his playing is kept in check by his work as chef and owner of the well-regarded guesthouse and restaurant that bears his name. Outside of summer, however, he’s a regular at the area’s music festivals. He took a few moments to answer our questions about music.
How did Doolin become known for music? In the 1970s Michael Russell and his brothers really began reviving the old songs. They had a farm here but weren’t very good farmers – if they heard of a session, they’d go play and leave the hay in the field. Pretty soon they had a reputation and people started coming here to hear them. Over time people began to expect music here, so publicans would pay a few guys each night just to get something going. It was a good way to get free pints.
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