Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [323]
Why did you stick with the fiddle? It has endless possibilities for how you play it. I can play the same song at every session here, but each time will be different. It can depend on where you sit, who else is playing, what the crowd’s like and more.
What kind of crowd is best? Loud. You just want to feel like you’re playing amongst people.
Does Doolin or Clare have a unique style? Yes, we do a lot of jigs and reels here. In other counties you’ll hear more polkas or other influences, but Clare musicians are pretty conservative. Older people come here and know everything we play. We play around with the old stuff and have fun with that.
What’s the worst thing that can happen in a pub session? Somebody starts to sing. We keep the jigs and reels going because otherwise after a few pints everybody thinks they can sing and they take over. We’re there playing for ourselves, not to back up drunks.
The second worst thing? Some guy always comes up and asks for ‘Devil Came Down to Georgia’. They must play it a lot in bad Irish bars in America.
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Drinking & Entertainment
Doolin’s rep is largely based on music. A lot of musicians live in the area, and they have a symbiotic relationship with the tourists: each desires the other and each year things grow a little larger. But given the heavy concentration of visitors it’s inevitable that standards don’t always hold up to those in some of the less-trampled villages in Clare. In summer, the antics of the tourists (joining in with musicians uninvited, trying to sing, ceaselessly demanding ‘When Irish Eyes are Smiling’, sending blurry cell-phone snaps worldwide etc) can be as entertaining as the sessions. Still, in the low season, Doolin is where you’ll always be able to hear a trad session.
Doolin’s three main pubs (others are recent interlopers) are listed here in order of their importance to the music scene.
O’Connor’s ( 065-707 4168; Fisherstreet) Right on the water, this sprawling favourite packs them in and has a rollicking atmosphere when the music and drinking are in full swing. The food’s good, too.
McGann’s ( 065-707 4133; Roadford) McGann’s has all the classic touches of a full-on Irish music pub; the action often spills out onto the street. Food is also served here and there’s a small outside covered area.
MacDiarmada’s ( 065-707 4700; Roadford) Also known as McDermott’s, this simple red-and-white old pub can be the rowdy favourite of locals. Music sessions are up to the best Doolin standards.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Doolin is one of two ferry departure points to the Aran Islands from April to October. Three ferry companies offer numerous departures in season. It takes around 20 to 30 minutes to cover the 8km to Inisheer (€30 return), the closest of the three islands. A boat to Inishmór takes one to 1½ hours with an Inisheer stop (€40 return). Ferries to Inishmaan are infrequent. Sailings are often cancelled due to high seas. Call and confirm times and book in advance.
Cliffs of Moher Cruises ( 065-707 5949; www.mohercruises.com; Doolin Pier; Apr-Oct) Offers combined Aran Islands trips with Cliffs of Moher cruises on the Jack B.
Doolin Ferries ( 065-707 4455, 065-707 4466; www.doolinferries.com; Doolin Pier) Offers frequent sailings to the islands and the cliffs.
O’Brien Line ( 065-707 5555; www.obrienline.com; Doolin Pier) Also offers cliff cruises.
BUS
Bus Éireann runs one to three buses daily to Doolin from Ennis (€11, 1½ hours) and Limerick (€15, 2½ hours) via Corofin, Lahinch and the Cliffs of Moher. Buses also go to Galway (€14, 1½ hours, one or two daily) via Ballyvaughan.
In the summer, various backpacker shuttles often serve Doolin from Galway and other points in Clare. These are amply marketed in hostels.
Getting Around
Besides the Doolin Activity Lodge, several hostels and B&Bs rent bikes; ask around.
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