• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

pop 950

Lisdoonvarna (Lios Dún Bhearna), often just called ‘Lisdoon’, is well known for its mineral springs. For centuries people have been visiting the local spa to swallow its waters. Posh in the Victorian era, the town is now a much more plebeian and friendly place. Away from the coast, it’s not overrun like Doolin and is a good base for exploring the Burren.

The town was once a centre for basadóiri (matchmakers) who, for a fee, would fix up a person with a spouse. Most of the (mainly male) hopefuls would hit town in September, feet shuffling, cap in hand, after the hay was in. Today, true matchmaking is unlikely, but the ever-expanding Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival (www.matchmakerireland.com), held throughout September and early October, is a great excuse for daftness, drinking, merrymaking, music and, of course, moneymaking.

Orientation & Information

Lisdoonvarna is essentially a one-street town with a square in the centre from where you turn west for Doolin and the coast. It has shops, pubs, B&Bs and hotels with some fine restaurants. Change money at the post office on Main St to the north.

There’s internet access at the Internet Shop ( 065-707 5005; Main St; per 20min €2; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat May-Sep).

Sights & Activities

At the southern end of town is a spa well, with a sulphur spring, a Victorian pumphouse and an agreeable, wooded setting. The iron, sulphur, magnesium and iodine in the water are supposed to be good for rheumatic and glandular complaints. Closer to the centre, you can drink the water, even if it’s not exactly a vintage wine-tasting experience. Look for a trail beside the Roadside Tavern that runs 400m down to two wells by the river. One is high in sulphur, the other iron. Mix and match for a cocktail of minerals.

You can learn about the ancient Irish art of oak-smoking salmon from a video (available in six languages) at the Burren Smokehouse ( 065-707 4432; www.burrensmokehouse.ie; Kincora Rd; admission free; 10am-5pm Apr-May, 9am-6pm Jun-Oct, shorter hr in winter). Tasty smoked salmon and other fishies in a myriad of forms are offered for free tasting – perhaps you’ll even buy some? Good coffee and tea are sold along with other deli-type foods suitable for picnics. Tourist information is also available. The smokehouse is at the edge of Lisdoonvarna on the Kincora road (N67).

Sleeping & Eating

Book during September’s Matchmaking Festival; B&Bs are like mushrooms after the rain.

Sleepzone ( 065-707 7168; www.sleepzone.ie; Doolin Rd; dm €15-20, s/d €35/50; ) Housed in a formerly posh hotel, this 124-bed hostel has an unusual grace. The grounds reflect its past and there are all the usual facilities and free continental breakfasts. The hostel is on a private bus route from Galway; ask the staff for details.

Sheedy’s Country House Hotel & Restaurant ( 065-707 4026; www.sheedys.com; Sulphur Hill; s/d from €120/180; mid-Mar–Sep) Take a leek from the kitchen garden – that’s just one of the playful bits of fun you can have at this posh yet relaxed 11-room guesthouse just outside of town. A long porch has comfy chairs for pondering the many gardens or just taking a snooze. Food is excellent. The bar has a huge range of whiskey.

Roadside Tavern ( 065-707 4084; meals €6-12) Down by the river, this pub is pure craic. Third-generation owner Peter Curtin knows every story worth telling. There are trad sessions daily in summer and during the weekends in winter. Imbibing musicians can be found here anytime. The trad fun extends to the kitchen, which turns out creamy seafood chowders etc.

Getting There & Around

Bus Éireann runs one to three buses daily to Doolin via Lisdoonvarna from Ennis, and to Limerick via Corofin, Lahinch and the Cliffs of Moher. Buses also go to Galway via Ballyvaughan and Black Head.

Return to beginning of chapter

FANORE

pop 150

Fanore (Fan Óir), 5km south of Black Head, is less a village and more a stretch of coast with a shop, a pub and a few houses scattered along the main road (R477). It has a fine sandy beach with an extensive backdrop of dunes. You’ll