Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [326]
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Sights & Activities
About 6km south of Ballyvaughan on the Lisdoonvarna road (N67) is a series of severe bends up Corkscrew Hill (180m). The road was built as part of a Great Famine relief scheme in the 1840s. From the top there are spectacular views of the northern Burren and Galway Bay, with Aillwee Mountain and the caves on the right, Cappanawalla Hill on the left, and the partially restored 16th-century Newtown Castle, erstwhile residence of the O’Lochlains, directly below.
Sleeping & Eating
There are several simple B&Bs close to the centre.
Oceanville House B&B ( 065-707 7051; www.ballyvaughanbandb.com; s/d from €45/70) Near Monk’s, this oceanfront B&B has views across the bay from the dormer windows in its compact upstairs rooms. This is a good spot for walking the village and sampling its pleasures.
Hyland’s Burren Hotel ( 065-707 7037; www.hylandsburren.com; Main St; s/d €70/90) An appealing place, this central hotel has 30 large rooms and manages to retain a local feel alongside modern hotel schtick. There’s a bar and a restaurant. Ask for the hotel’s Walks leaflet.
Rusheen Lodge ( 065-707 7092; www.rusheenlodge.com; Lisdoonvarna Rd; s/d from €70/100; Feb-Nov; ) Stylish, imaginative furnishings make this nine-room guesthouse a winner. Enjoy a romp in the colourful gardens. It’s about 750m south of the village on the N67.
Monk’s Bar & Restaurant ( 065-707 7059; Old Pier; mains €10-20; kitchen noon-8pm) Famed for its excellent seafood, Monk’s is a cheerful, spacious and comfortable place. Peat fires warm in winter, while sea breezes cool you at the outdoor tables in summer. The pub is open late and there are trad sessions some nights in high season.
Ólólainn (Main St) A tiny family-run place on the left as you head out to the pier, Ólólainn (o-loch-lain) is the place for a timeless moment or two in old-fashioned snugs. Look for the old whiskey bottles in the window.
Ballyvaughan’s farmers market ( 10am-2pm Sat) celebrates the huge range of high-quality local produce.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann runs one to three buses daily from Galway through Ballyvaughan and around Black Head to Lisdoonvarna and Doolin.
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CENTRAL BURREN
The scenery along the R480 as it passes through the heart of the region is harsh but inspiring, highlighting the barren Burren at its best. Amazing prehistoric stone structures can be found throughout this area.
South from Ballyvaughan the R480 branches off the N67 at the sign for Aillwee Caves, passing Gleninsheen Wedge Tomb and Poulnabrone Dolmen before reaching Leamanegh Castle, where it joins the R476, which runs southeast to Corofin. At any point along here, try a small road – especially those to the east – for an escape into otherworldly solitude.
Aillwee Caves
Popular with kids, the Aillwee Caves ( 065-707 7036; www.aillweecave.ie; Ballyvaughan; adult/child €17/10; 10am-5.30pm) are a large tourist attraction. The main cave penetrates 600m into the mountain, widening into larger caverns, one with its own waterfall. The caves were carved out by water some two million years ago. Near the entrance are the remains of a brown bear, extinct in Ireland for more than 10,000 years. Often crowded in summer, there’s a cafe and other time killers like a cheese factory on site. A large raptor exhibit has captive hawks, owls and more.
Gleninsheen Wedge Tomb
One of Ireland’s most famous prehistoric grave sites, Gleninsheen lies beside the R480 just south of Aillwee Caves. It’s thought to date from 4000 to 5000 years ago. A magnificent gold torc (a crescent of beaten gold that hung round the