Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [327]
Poulnabrone Dolmen
What would a Burren brochure designer do without it? Also known as the Portal Tomb, Poulnabrone Dolmen is one of Ireland’s most photographed ancient monuments. The dolmen (a large slab perched on stone uprights) stands amid a swathe of rocky pavements, surprising even the most jaded traveller with its otherworldly appearance; the capstone weighs five tonnes. The site is about 8km south of Aillwee and is visible from the R480. A large free parking area and excellent displays make it visitor friendly.
Poulnabrone was built more than 5000 years ago. It was excavated in 1986, and the remains of 16 people were found, as well as pieces of pottery and jewellery. Radiocarbon dating suggests that they were buried between 3800 BC and 3200 BC. When the dead were originally entombed here, the whole structure was partially covered in a mound of earth, which has since worn away. It’s your guess as to how they built it.
Caherconnell Fort
For a look at a well-preserved caher (walled fort) of the late Iron Age–Early Christian period, stop at Caherconnell Fort ( 065-708 9999; www.burrenforts.ie; adult/child €6/4; 10am-6pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mar-Jun, Sep & Oct), a privately run heritage attraction that’s more serious than sideshow. Exhibits detail how the evolution of these defensive settlements may have reflected territorialism and competition for land among a growing, settling population. The drystone walling of the fort is in excellent condition. The top-notch visitor centre also has information on many other monuments in the area. It’s about 1km south of Poulnabrone on the R480.
Carron & Around
The tiny village of Carron (Carran on some maps, An Carn in Gaelic), a few kilometres east of the R480, is a wonderfully remote spot. Vistas of the rocky Burren stretch in all directions from Carron’s elevated position.
A must-see stop, the Burren Perfumery & Floral Centre ( 065-708 9102; www.burrenperfumery.com; Carron; 9am-7pm Jul-Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-Jun) is a creative treasure. It uses wildflowers of the Burren to produce its scents, and is the only handicraft perfumery in Ireland. There’s a free audiovisual presentation on the flora of the Burren, which has a surprising diversity. One example: the fragrant orchid that grows among the rocks. The centre has an organic-tea cafe, and native and herb gardens. Look for perfumery signs at the T-junction near Carron church. Note that tour buses aren’t welcome.
Below Carron lies one of the finest turloughs in Ireland. It’s known as the Carron Polje. Polje is a Serbo-Croatian term used universally for these shallow depressions that flood in winter and dry out in summer, when the lush grass that flourishes on the surface is used for grazing.
Stretching south from Carron almost to Kilnaboy is land best suited for growing rocks. Take any narrow track you find, and every so often you’ll see an ancient dolmen.
About 3km south of Carron and perched on the edge of an inland cliff is the great stone fort of Cahercommaun. It was inhabited in the 8th and 9th centuries AD by people who hunted deer and grew a small amount of grain. The remains of a souterrain (underground passage) lead from the fort to the outer cliff face. To get there, go south from Carron and take a left turn for Kilnaboy. After 1.5km a path on the left leads up to the fort. Look for a good info board at the start of the path.
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ROCK LEGENDS
The geology of the Burren may seem like a load of old rocks, but there is immense drama and excitement in the primeval adventures that produced the exquisite landscape we see today. The Burren is the most extensive limestone region, or karst (after the original Karst in Slovenia), in Ireland or Britain. It consists almost entirely of limestone, except for a cap of mud and shale that sits on the higher regions. The rock-faced Aran Islands are part of this same geologic area.
During the Carboniferous