Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [345]
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DIVINE INSPIRATION
Devotees of the late 1990s cult TV series Father Ted might recognise Craggy Island – the show’s fictional island setting off Ireland’s west coast – from its opening sequence showing the Plassy shipwreck Click here on Inisheer. However, apart from this single shot, the sitcom was mostly filmed in London studios, with additional location shots in Counties Clare, Wicklow and Dublin. Alas, the Parochial House and Vaughan’s Pub are nowhere to be found here (instead you’ll find them around Lisdoonvarna in County Clare).
This hasn’t stopped the Aran Islands from embracing the show as their own. Although there has been some grumbling from its smaller neighbours, Inishmór has seized upon Ted-mania for itself and each year hosts Tedfest (www.tedfest.org), a Father Ted festival. Held during the purgatory of tourism (late February or March) this three-day carnival of nonsense has been a huge hit.
There are games (hide-and-seek in the dark is, er, big), talent contests, themed meals and drinking – lots of drinking. So popular has the event become that in 2009 it sold out and plans are to hold multiple Tedfests over multiple weekends.
Besides being an excuse to party island-style, the festival was organised to commemorate actor Dermot Morgan (Father Ted), who died in 1998 from a heart attack, aged 45. Proceeds are donated to Croí, the West of Ireland Cardiology Foundation.
A popular feature of Tedfest that appeals to locals is the Craggy Cup (www.craggycup.com), which pits football teams from various Irish islands against each other. This also provides an excuse for more drinking and, goodness, gambling.
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There’s an EU Blue Flag white-sand beach (awarded for cleanliness) at Kilmurvey, peacefully situated west of bustling Kilronan. Many sunbathers shed their parkas in summer. In the sheltered little bay of Port Chorrúch, up to 50 grey seals sun themselves and feed in the shallows.
Sleeping
The tourist office can book rooms for a €4 fee. Advance bookings are advised, particularly in high summer. Many places offer excellent evening meals; those listed under Eating are open to nonguests.
Mainistir House Hostel ( 099-61169; www.mainistirhousearan.com; Mainistir; dm/d €17/50; ) Quirky and colourful, this 60-bed hostel on the main road north of Kilronan is a fun place for young travellers. A simple breakfast is included in the rates. Dinner is an event (see opposite).
Kilronan Hostel ( 099-61255; www.kilronanhostel.com; Kilronan; dm €21-27; ) You’ll see the pistachio-green Kilronan Hostel perched above Tí Joe Mac’s pub even before your ferry docks at the pier, a two-minute walk away. Four- and six-bed rooms are spotless and have private bathrooms. A terrace is good for chilling.
Man of Aran Cottage ( 099-61301; www.manofarancottage.com; Kilmurvey; s/d from €60/90; Mar-Oct) Built for the 1930s film of the same name Click here, this thatched B&B doesn’t trade on past glories – its authentic stone-and-wood interiors define charming. The owners are avid organic gardeners (the tomatoes are famous) and their bounty can become your meal.
Beach View House ( 099-61141; www.beachviewhousearan.com; r €60-100) Located 4km west of Kilronan, this unassuming B&B lives up exactly to its name: it overlooks the EU-flagged white-sand beach. There are good walks in all directions, especially Dún Aengus, which beckons from a nearby escarpment. Fresh scones are served with breakfast.
Kilmurvey House ( 099-61218; www.kilmurveyhouse.com; Kilmurvey; s/d from €65/100; Apr-Sep) On the path leading to Dún Aengus is this grand 18th-century stone mansion. It’s a beautiful setting, and the 12 rooms are well maintained. Hearty meals (dinner €30) incorporate home-grown vegetables, and local fish and meats. You can swim at a pretty beach