Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [346]
Ard Mhuiris ( 099-61333; ardmhuiris@eircom.net; Kilronan; s/d €70/80) Less than a five-minute stroll from the centre of town, this very tidy B&B hits the sweet spot of Aran Islands accommodation: it’s quiet, welcoming and has good sea views if you have to curl up in your room on a rainy day.
Ard Einne ( 099-61126; www.ardeinne.com; Killeany; r €90-120) Enjoy broad views of Cill Éinne Bay from this mannered, almost timeless, eight-room guesthouse near various ruins and the airport. It really couldn’t be quieter – the perfect surrounds after a day spent walking. There’s a restaurant for guests that features fresh local food.
Pier House Guest House ( 099-61417; www.pierhousearan.com; Kilronan; r €90-120; Mar-Oct) You won’t have time to lose your sea legs in the 100m walk from the ferry to this two-storey house perched on a small rise. The 10 rooms are bright and comfortable.
Eating
Some of the pubs listed under Drinking offer good bar food.
O’Malley’s @ Bayview ( 099-61041; Kilronan; mains €7-23; 11am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) The terrace here has commanding harbour views. The simple menu belies the talents of the kitchen; choices include fine fish chowder, good burgers and pizza, plus fresh fish at night.
Mainistir House Hostel ( 099-61169; Mainistir; buffet €16; from 8pm summer, from 7pm winter) Mainistir House Hostel cooks up renowned organic, largely vegetarian fare featuring dishes redolent with the tastes of summer – pesto is much in evidence. Nonguests are welcome, but be sure to book.
Pier House Guest House ( 099-61811; Kilronan; mains €22-30; noon-10pm) Sitting on the large terrace watching the ferries come and go while grazing your way through a platter of local seafood is one of the island’s joys. There’s a fireplace inside for when it blows.
Drinking
Tigh Fitz ( 099-61213; Killeany) Near the airport, this jovial pub has traditional sessions and set dancing every weekend and does excellent bar food (noon to 5pm) from June to August. It’s 1.6km from Kilronan (about a 25-minute walk).
Joe Watty’s Bar ( 099-61155; Kilronan) This is the best pub in Kilronan, with traditional sessions most nights and pub food (noon to 8pm) from June to August.
Tí Joe Mac’s ( 099-61248; Kilronan) Informal music sessions and pub food served all year make Tí Joe Mac’s a local favourite.
American Bar ( 099-61130; Kilronan) Two large rooms fill with happy pint quaffers throughout the year. In low season sloshed locals anticipate the next year of tourists (especially the namesakes of the bar). The room on the right as you enter, with its windows and access to the terrace, is the best bet.
Shopping
Shops around Kilronan mostly sell machine-knitted Aran sweaters. For a much heavier, hand-knitted version, visit Mary O’Flaherty ( 099-61117; Oat Quarter). Chances are you’ll see Mary knitting when you call in. Expect to pay around €100 for a genuine hand-knitted sweater.
The tourist office ( 11am-7pm Jun-Sep, 11am-2pm & 3-5pm Oct-May) sells greeting cards featuring evocative impressionist paintings by local artist Michaél Ó Ceallaigh, and can give you details about buying original works. Its selection of local books is tops.
Getting Around
Aran Cycle Hire ( 099-61132; per day €10), near the pier, hires out hundreds of sturdy bikes, which it’ll deliver to your accommodation anywhere on the island. You can also bring your own bicycle on the ferry for free. Most places to stay have bicycles for use or rent.
Year-round, numerous minibuses (tours €10) greet each ferry and plane. All offer 2½-hour island tours; some of the drivers are such characters (including Thomas O’Toole, 087 624 9802) that you’ll be laughing too hard to notice the rocky vistas.
To see the island at a gentler pace, pony traps ( Mar-Nov) with a driver are available for trips between Kilronan and Dún Aengus; the return journey costs between €60 and €100 for up to four people.
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INISHMAAN
pop 200
The least-visited of the islands, with the smallest population (a little over 100 in winter,