Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [349]
Online, www.inisoirr-island.com is a handy resource for planning your trip.
Sights & Activities
The majority of Inisheer’s sights are in the north of the island. The 15th-century O’Brien’s Castle (Caisleán Uí Bhriain), a 100m climb uphill to the island’s highest point, has dramatic views over clover-covered fields to the beach and harbour. It was built within the remains of a ring fort called Dún Formna, dating from as early as the 1st century AD. The gate is sometimes locked, but, if it’s open, you can explore the remains freely. Nearby is an 18th-century signal tower.
On the Strand (An Trá) is the roofless 10th-century Teampall Chaoimháin (Church of St Kevin), named for Inisheer’s patron saint, who is buried close by. On the eve of his 14 June feast day, a mass is held here in the open air at 9pm. Those with ailments sleep here for the night to be healed.
Cill Ghobnait (Church of St Gobnait), southwest of Inisheer Heritage House, is a small 8th- or 9th-century church named after Gobnait, who fled here from Clare while trying to escape an enemy who was pursuing her.
About 2km southwest of the church is the Tobar Éinne (Well of St Enda). Locals still carry out a pilgrimage known as the Turas, which involves, over the course of three consecutive Sundays, picking up seven stones from the ground nearby and walking around the small well seven times, putting one stone down each time, while saying the rosary until an elusive eel appears from the well’s watery depths. If, during this ritual, you’re lucky enough to see the eel, it’s said your tongue will be bestowed with healing powers, enabling you to literally lick wounds.
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WALK: INISHEER EXPLORED
This moderate 12km (five-hour) walk takes in many of Inisheer’s sights. It virtually circumnavigates the island, taking you through the settled northern fringe, past the stone-walled fields in the centre and south, and around the wild and rocky south coast. For all but 2km along the southern shore, the walk follows quiet lanes. You’ll come across yellow markers on some sections of the walk, marking the Inis Oírr Way, which confines itself to the northern two-thirds of the island.
From the Inisheer ferry pier, walk west along the narrow road parallel to the shore and continue past the Fisherman’s Cottage cafe. At the next junction go on straight ahead to the small fishing pier at the northwest corner of the island. Continue along the road, now with a gravel surface, past another acute-angled junction on the left (where the waymarkers reappear). Here the shingle shore is on one side of the road, and a dense patchwork of fields, enclosed by the ubiquitous stone walls, is on the other.
About 1km from the acute junction, turn left at the painted sign; about 100m along the paved lane is the Tobar Éinne.
Return to the coast road and continue southwest as it becomes a rough track. After about 600m, head roughly south across the limestone pavement and strips of grass to the shore. Follow the gently sloping rock platform around the southwestern headland (Ceann na Faochnaí) and walk east to the lighthouse near Fardurris Point (two hours from the ferry pier).
Walk around the wall enclosing the lighthouse and use a stile to cross another wall by the entrance gate. Now back on a level surface, follow the road generally northeast as it climbs gradually. Access to Cill na Seacht Niníon (the Church of the Seven Daughters) is from a point 1.5km from the lighthouse, almost opposite two metal-roofed sheds on the right; a pillar next to a gate bears the chapel’s name and an arrow points vaguely in its direction. Use stiles to cross three fields to a rusty gate in the ivy-clad walls around the chapel site. In the largest stone enclosure are five weathered grave markers, one of which still has a faint incised cross.
Back on the road, continue northeast to the village of An Formna. Take the right fork, then turn right again at a T-junction and head south along the road above Lough More.