Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [350]
Head north, following the track, which then becomes a sealed road at the northern end of Lough More. Continue following the road along the northern shore of the island, past the airstrip.
At the airstrip you can diverge, if you wish, to the sandy hummock that shelters the ancient Teampall Chaoimháin. A little further along the road, turn left to reach O’Brien’s Castle. From here, follow the narrow road northwest, turn right at a T-junction and then make your way to Cnoc Rathnaí, a Bronze Age burial mound (1500 BC), which is remarkably intact considering it was buried under the sand until the 19th century, when it was rediscovered. Continue towards the beach; the pier is to your left through a maze of lanes.
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The signposted 10.5km Inis Oírr Way (Inisheer Way) walking path brings you past the rusting hulk of the Plassy, a freighter wrecked in 1960 and thrown high up onto the rocks. Miraculously, all on board were saved; Tigh Ned’s pub has a collection of photographs and documents detailing the rescue. An aerial shot of the wreck was used in the opening sequence of the iconic TV series Father Ted (see the boxed text, Click here). The photogenic lighthouse (1857) on the island’s southern tip is inaccessible.
Inisheer boasts a large community arts centre, Áras Éanna ( 099-75150), which sits out on an exposed stretch of the northern side of the island, a 15-minute walk from the village. It has visiting artists programs.
Festivals & Events
One of the island’s highlights is the week-long Craiceann Inis Oírr International Bodhrán Summer School ( 099-75067; www.craiceann.com) in late June, which includes bodhrán masterclasses, lectures and workshops, as well as related events, such as Irish dancing. Craiceann takes its name from the Irish word for ‘skin’, referring to the goat skin used to make these circular drums, which are held under one arm and played with a wooden beater. The festival – its slogan is ‘Lock up your goats!’ – is headed up by Inisheer local Micheal O hAlmhain, who has performed with a number of Irish bands, including the Chieftains. During Craiceann, nightly drumming sessions take place in the island’s pubs.
Sleeping & Eating
There is camping (with toilets and showers) at the official site by the main beach.
Brú Radharc Na Mara Hostel ( 099-75024; radharcnamara@hotmail.com; dm €18, d €50; Mar-Oct) Handily located next to a pub and by the pier, this spotless hostel has ocean views, a large kitchen, a warming fireplace and bikes for hire. The owners also run the adjacent B&B (rooms €50), with basic rooms with private bathrooms.
Radharc an Chláir ( 099-75019; bridpoil@eircom.net; r €45-75) This pleasant, modern B&B near O’Brien’s Castle has views of the Cliffs of Moher and Galway Bay. Book several weeks ahead, as hostess Brid Poil’s home cooking draws many repeat visitors. Guests can hire bikes (€10 per day) and arrange evening meals (€20). Some rooms share bathrooms.
Fisherman’s Cottage & South Aran House ( 099-75073; www.southaran.com; s/d €45/70; Apr-Oct; ) Slow-food enthusiasts run this sprightly B&B and cafe that’s a mere five-minute walk from the pier. Lavender grows in profusion at the entrance; follow your nose. Food (lunch and dinner, open to nonguests, mains €12 to €20) celebrates local seafood and organic produce. Rooms are simple yet stylish. Kayaking and fishing are among the activities on offer.
Óstán Inis Oírr ( 099-75020; r €55-90; Apr-Sep) The Flaherty family’s modern hotel, just up from the Strand, has 14 homey rooms and serves hearty meals in its pub and restaurant (mains €8 to €14, open lunch and dinner). On chilly nights, set your electric blanket to 11.
Drinking
Tigh Ned ( 099-75004) Here since 1897, Tigh Ned is a welcoming, unpretentious place, with lively traditional music and inexpensive lunchtime fare. Tables in the garden have harbour views.
Tigh Ruaírí ( 099-75020) Rory Conneely’s atmospheric digs host live music sessions.