Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [356]
Looming above the stone pier is Mt Errisbeg (298m), the only significant hill along this section of coastline. The pleasant walk from Roundstone to the top takes about two hours. Follow the small road past O’Dowd’s pub in the centre of the village. From the summit there are wonderful views across the bay to the distant humps of the Twelve Bens.
Sleeping & Eating
Gurteen Beach Caravan & Camping Park ( 091-35882; www.gurteenbay.com; Roundstone; campsites €15) This peaceful, well-equipped camping ground is in a great spot 2.5km west of town, near Dog’s Bay beach.
Wits End B&B ( 091-35813; Main St; r from €60; Mar-Nov) Right in the centre of town, this pink palace (well, pink modest house) has rooms (with private bathrooms) looking over the road to the water. It’s basic but comfortable and is a mere stumble from the fine pubs.
Roundstone House ( 091-35864; www.roundstonehousehotel.com; Main St; r €65-120; Apr-Oct) A dignified presence lining Main St, this sprawling inn has 13 restful rooms with tea kettles and other creature comforts, plus views across the bay. The pub has trad sessions some nights in summer and you can enjoy pints and local seafood out on the terrace.
O’Dowd’s ( 091-35809; Main St; mains €15-22; restaurant noon-10pm Apr-Sep, noon-3pm & 6-9.30pm Oct-Mar) This well-worn, comfortable old pub hasn’t lost any of its authenticity since it starred in the Hollywood flick The Matchmaker. Specialities at its adjoining restaurant include seafood sourced off the old stone dock right across the street.
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ROUNDSTONE TO CLIFDEN
The R341 shadows the coast from Roundstone to Clifden. Beaches along here have such beautiful white sand and turquoise water that, if you added 10°C to the temperature, you could be in St Barts. About 2.5km from Roundstone, look for the turn to Gurteen Bay (sometimes spelt Gorteen Bay). After a further 800m there is a turn for Dogs Bay. Together, the pair form the two sides of a dog-bone-shaped peninsula lined with idyllic beaches. Park and enjoy a day strolling the grassy heads and frolicking on the hard-packed sand.
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WHERE THERE’S SMOKE, THERE’S SALMON
If you’re curious to discover how the area’s famous salmon is smoked, you can tour the family-run Connemara Smokehouse ( 095-23739; www.smokehouse.ie; Bunowen Pier, Ballyconneely; tours 3pm Wed Jun-Aug). Free tours show you the hand filleting, traditional preparation, slicing and packing of the wild and organic salmon, and shed light on various smoking methods before finishing up with a tasting. Advance reservations are essential. Outside tour times, it’s usually possible to stop by the smokehouse and stock up if you call ahead.
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Overlooking the sand, Errisbeg Lodge ( 091-35807; www.errisbeglodge.com; r €80-120) is a hiker’s haven. Let the sea breezes in through your room’s window and soon you’ll be exploring the area, from hikes up the peaks to beachside ambles. Genial hoofed critters stand placidly in the fields.
Away from the coast, there is an alternate route through protected Roundstone Bog, between Roundstone and Clifden. The old road is a bumpy ride, passing through an eerie, rust-collared wilderness. Locals who believe the bog is haunted won’t drive this road at night; indeed, the roughness of the road is reason enough to avoid it after dark. In summer, you might see turf being harvested by hand, as blanket bogs cannot be cut mechanically. The road runs west from a junction on the R341 about 4km north of Roundstone. It rejoins the R341 at Ballinaboy.
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CLIFDEN & AROUND
pop 1900
Connemara’s ‘capital’, Clifden (An Clochán), is an appealing Victorian-era country town with an imperfect oval of streets offering evocative strolls. It presides over the head of the narrow bay where the River Owenglin tumbles into the sea. The surrounding countryside beckons you to walk through woods and above the shoreline.
Though the summer months clog Clifden’s streets with