Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [357]
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GUIDED WALKS IN CONNEMARA
Maps of the myriad walking trails in Connemara are sold at bookshops and tourist offices. However, to really appreciate the region’s unique geology, natural beauty and ancient history, you may wish to go with a guide.
Connemara Safari ( 095-21071; www.walkingconnemara.com) runs five-day tours in the region that include meals and accommodation. Tour leaders are experts in fields such as archaeology. Routes include some of the deserted islands off the coast and cost from €700.
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Information
There are banks with ATMs around Market Sq, as well as a large supermarket.
Clifden Bookshop ( 095-22020; Main St) Good for local titles.
Post office (Main St)
Shamrock Washeteria ( 095-21348; Market Sq) Laundrette.
Tourist office ( 095-21163; www.clifdenchamber.ie; Galway road; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Easter-Jun & Sep, 10am-5pm daily Jul & Aug)
Two Dog Internet Café ( 095-22186; Church Hill; per hr €5) Excellent coffee and snacks.
Sights & Activities
The region’s past comes to life at the Connemara Heritage & History Centre ( 095-21808; www.connemaraheritage.com; Lettershea; adult/under 12yr €8/4; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct). Farmer Dan O’Hara lived here until his eviction from the farm and subsequent emigration to New York, where he ended up selling matches on the street. Its present owners have restored the property, turning it into a window onto lost traditional ways, with demonstrations of bog cutting, thatching, sheep shearing and so on. It’s possible to stay at the farmhouse in more comfort than Dan ever enjoyed. The homestead is 7km east of town on the N59.
Heading directly west from Clifden’s Market Sq, Sky Road traces a spectacular loop out to the township of Kingston and back to Clifden, taking in some rugged, stunningly beautiful coastal scenery en route. The round trip of about 12km can be easily walked or cycled, but, if you’re short on time, you can also drive.
Connemara’s ponies are a docile bunch. If you’d like to strike up a friendship, try going for a ride with Errislannan Manor ( 095-21134; www.connemaraponyriding.com; Ballyconneely Rd). Guides provide lessons and lead treks along the beach and up into the hills. Rates start at €35 per hour and depend on the type and length of ride you want to take. The centre is 3.5km south of Clifden on the R341.
You can see the local ponies at their swiftest during the annual Connemara Pony Show (www.cpbs.ie) held in late August. It draws punters from across western Ireland.
Sleeping
Numerous attractive choices in the centre allow you to easily partake of Clifden’s many charms.
Brookside Hostel ( 095-21812; www.brooksidehostel.com; Fairgreen; dm €16, d €40-50; Mar-Oct; ) Run by Richard Bartley, who built it from scratch, this sterling IHH hostel is located in a peaceful spot off the bottom of Market St, with the River Owenglin trickling past. Watch the annual pony show from the rooms.
Clifden Town Hostel ( 095-21076; www.clifdentownhostel.com; Market St; dm €17-21, d €44) Right in the centre of town, this cheery IHH hostel is set in a cream-coloured house framed by big picture windows. Its sunlit rooms hold 34 beds.
Ben View House ( 095-21256; www.benviewhouse.com; Bridge St; r €45-80) This central 1848 town house has a vintage charm provided by timber beams, polished floorboards and old-fashioned hospitality. The nine rooms are nutty with antiques. It caters to cyclists, with special storage areas and a tolerance for sweat.
Dun Ri Guesthouse ( 095-21625; www.dunri.ie; Hulk St; r €50-100; ) Just down the hill from the centre, in a quiet spot near the pony track, this appealing modern inn has 13 spacious rooms. The included breakfast offers many choices; the cheese plate was one of the finest we’ve been served.
Foyles Hotel ( 095-21801; www.foyleshotel.com; Main St; s €72, d €114-170; Jun-Aug) A white-trimmed,