Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [358]
Sea Mist House ( 095-21441; Market St; www.seamisthouse.com; r €80-120; ) Right in town but opening onto a private fairy-tale garden (which also provides fruit for homemade jam to spread on your freshly baked scones), this stone house has four immaculate rooms.
Quay House ( 095-21369; www.thequayhouse.com; Beach Rd; r €90-180; mid-Mar–mid-Nov) Down by the water, a 10-minute walk from town, this rambling 1820 house has 14 rooms filled with antiques but managing an unfussy style that seems contemporary. Run by an offshoot of the Foyle family of hoteliers, it has pleasures unheard of during past careers as a convent and monastery. Bathrooms have tubs and showers; breakfasts are superb.
Eating & Drinking
Pubs and restaurants cluster around Clifden’s town centre. As elsewhere in these parts, seafood reigns supreme.
Lowry’s Bar ( 095-21347; Market St; meals €4-9; 10.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, 10.30am-1am Fri & Sat) A time-worn local, Lowry’s has traditional pleasures, ranging from the age-old, unadorned look of the place to its céilidh sessions, which take place at least a couple of nights a week. The food is ‘unpretentious Irish’ (eg bangers and mash).
Off the Square ( 095-22281; Main St; mains €10-22; 9am-10pm) Mediterranean flavours make an appearance at this excellent restaurant, which serves meals throughout the day. Casual fare at lunch gives way to superb meals at night. Local meats star; we had a satiny bacon and cabbage special.
EJ Kings ( 095-21330; Market Sq; mains €14-22; 10.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, 10am-12.30am Fri & Sat) A busy old pub established in 1852, EJ Kings has decent though fancy pub food, but it’s really the place to quaff some pints on a busy weekend night. Get a tip on the ponies.
Mitchell’s ( 095-21867; Market St; mains around €17-28; noon-10pm) Seafood takes centre stage at this elegant spot. From a velvety chowder right through a long list of ever-changing specials, the produce of the surrounding waters is honoured. The wine list does the food justice.
Mullarky’s Pub ( 095-21801; Main St) Another Foyle family production, this rollicking pub is a riot of local merriment, with live music many nights. Join the fun and you may need to stay in Clifden longer than you thought.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie) and Citylink (www.citylink.ie) have several services daily to Galway along the N59. Fares start at €11 and the trip takes 90 minutes, passing many other towns on the way.
Getting Around
The compact town centre is easy to cover on foot. John Mannion & Son ( 095-21160; Bridge St) hires out bicycles for €15 per day.
Return to beginning of chapter
CLADDAGHDUFF & OMEY ISLAND
Following the fretted coastline north of Clifden brings you to the tiny village of Claddaghduff (An Cladach Dubh), which is signposted off the road to Cleggan. If you turn west here down by the Catholic church, you will come out on Omey Strand, and at low tide you can drive or walk across the sand to Omey Island (population 20), a low islet of rock, grass, sand and a handful of houses. During summer, horse races are held on Omey Strand.
Return to beginning of chapter
CLEGGAN
pop 300
Most visitors whiz through Cleggan (An Cloiggean), a small fishing village 16km northwest of Clifden, to hop on the Inishbofin ferry. While here, however, you can experience Ireland’s ‘wild west’ at Cleggan Riding Centre ( 095-44746; www.clegganridingcentre.com; prices vary), which offers year-round horseback adventures including three-hour treks to Omey Island via the sandy causeway.
Oliver’s ( 095-44640; mains €18-25; 5-9pm) is a locally loved seafood pub. The classic facade is as black as a pint of Guinness. Specials depend on the catch.
Citylink (www.citylink.ie) buses continue to Cleggan three times daily from Clifden.
Return to beginning of chapter
INISHBOFIN
pop