Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [359]
By day sleepy Inishbofin is a haven of tranquillity. You can walk or bike its narrow, deserted lanes, green pastures and sandy beaches, with farm animals and seals for company. But with no gardaí on the island to enforce closing times at the pub, by night – you guessed it – Inishbofin has mighty fine craic.
Information
Inishbofin’s small post office has a grocery shop and a currency-exchange facility. Pubs and hotels will usually change travellers cheques. The tourism association ( 095-45861; www.inishbofin.com) has good info, including detailed online guides to local walks.
Sight & Activities
Situated 9km offshore, Inishbofin is compact – 6km long by 3km wide – and its highest point is a mere 86m above sea level. Just off the northern beach is Lough Bó Finne, from which the island gets its name; bó finne means ‘white cow’.
St Colman exiled himself to Inishbofin in AD 664, after he fell out with the Church over its adoption of a new calendar. He set up a monastery, supposedly northeast of the harbour, where the more recent ruins of a small 13th-century church still stand. Grace O’Malley, the famous pirate queen, used Inishbofin as a base in the 16th century, and Cromwell’s forces captured the island in 1652, building a star-shaped prison for priests and clerics. Just behind the pier, the small but comprehensive heritage museum ( 095-45950; www.inishbofin.com; admission free; hours vary) gives an overview of the island’s history. Displays include the contents of a pre-Famine house, photographs, and traditional farming and fishing equipment.
Inishbofin’s pristine waters offer superb scuba diving (see the boxed text, Click here).
Festivals & Events
The island well and truly wakes up during the May Inishbofin Arts Festival ( 095-45861; www.inishbofin.com), which features accordion workshops, archaeological walks, art exhibitions and concerts by such high-profile Irish bands as the Frames, as well as other events.
Sleeping & Eating
You can pitch a tent on most unfenced ground, but not on or near the beaches.
Inishbofin Island Hostel ( 095-45855; www.inishbofin-hostel.ie; camping per person €10, dm €15-18, d €80-90; early Apr-Sep) In an old farmhouse, this snug 38-bed hostel has glassed-in common areas with panoramic views and equally scenic campsites. It’s 500m up from the ferry dock.
Doonmore Hotel ( 095-45804; www.doonmorehotel.com; s €60-75, d €100-130; Apr-Sep) Close to the harbour, Doonmore has comfortable, unpretentious rooms. Lunch (€15) and dinner (€35) in the dining room take advantage of the abundance of locally caught seafood, and the hotel can pack lunches for you to take while exploring the island.
Dolphin Hotel & Restaurant ( 095-45991; www.dolphinhotel.ie; r €70-110; ) A panoply of beiges dominates the guest rooms at this stylish study in modern minimalism. Walnut furniture is set off by images of the island’s natural beauty. Solar panels on the roof and an organic kitchen garden lend green cred. Local seafood and vegetarian dishes dominate the menu (mains €15 to €25). At weekends there may be a two-night minimum stay.
Getting There & Around
Ferries from Cleggan to Inishbofin take 30 to 45 minutes and cost €20/10 per adult/child.
Dolphins often swim alongside the boats. Confirm ahead, as ferries may be cancelled when seas are rough. Once there, everything is walkable: the island is a mere 3km by 6km.
Island Discovery ( 095-45894, 095-45819; www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com) runs two to three times daily from Cleggan to Inishbofin.
Kings Bicycle Hire ( 095-45833), at the pier, hires out bicycles for €15 per day.
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LETTERFRACK & AROUND
pop 200
Founded by Quakers in the mid-19th century, Letterfrack (Leitir Fraic) is ideally situated for exploring Connemara National Park, Renvyle Point and Kylemore Abbey. The village is barely more than a crossroads with a few pubs and B&Bs, but the forested setting and nearby coast are a magnet for outdoors adventure seekers. A 4km walk to the peak of Tully Mountain takes 40 minutes and affords wonderful ocean views.
Sights