Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [375]
Dominick Kelly’s ( 098-41149; Main St) If you’re self-catering, picnicking or simply want a taste of Newport village life, pop into this much-loved artisan butcher shop, which also sells gourmet deli goods.
Getting There & Away
The frequent Bus Éireann ( 096-71800) service between Westport (€3.90) and Achill Island (€8.70) passes through Newport.
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NEWPORT TO ACHILL ISLAND
If you’ve time, skip the main road from Newport to Achill Island in favour of the longer and narrower but infinitely more scenic Atlantic Drive. It’s well signposted along the southern edge of the Curraun Peninsula (also spelt Corraun Peninsula).
Burrishoole Abbey
From a distance, the eerie shell of this wind-battered 1486-built Dominican abbey (admission free; dawn-dusk) resembles a 2D film set. About 2.5km northwest towards Achill a sign points the way to the abbey, from where it’s a further 1km.
Rockfleet Castle
Also known as Carrigahowley, this 15th-century tower is one of the most tangible spots associated with ‘pirate queen’ Grace O’Malley (Click here). She married her second husband, Richard an-Iarrain (impressively nicknamed ‘Iron Dick’ Burke), to gain control of this castle, and famously fought off an English attack here.
The tower is in a quiet outlet of Clew Bay. Turn south at the sign, about 5km west of Newport on the Achill road.
Mulranny
Rising from a narrow isthmus, the hillside village of Mulranny (An Mhala Raithní), spelt Mulrany on some maps, overlooks a wide Blue Flag beach: take the steps opposite the Park Inn, or the path beside the service station. It’s a prime vantage point to try counting the 365 or so saucer-sized islands that grace Clew Bay.
Sleeping
Midrange accommodation is best on Achill (Click here).
Traenlaur Lodge ( 098-41358; www.anoige.ie; Lough Feeagh, Newport; dm €17; reception 5-10pm Jun-Sep) A gorgeous An Óige hostel in a former fishing lodge with its own harbour on Lough Feeagh. Its summertime-only opening reflects its main clientele: walkers resting their weary feet from the Western Way or Bangor Trail. It’s 8km from Newport, signposted from the Achill road.
Park Inn Mulranny ( 098-36000; www.parkinnmulranny.ie; N59, Mulranny; s €110-130, d €170-210, apt €225-285; Feb-Dec, restaurant closed Sun Feb-May & Sep-Dec; ) Established in 1897, this grand building on 17 wooded hectares boasts one of the most magical coastal views in Ireland. Now part of the Park Inn chain, service is haphazard, but room decor is up to date, as are the facilities that include a leisure centre.
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THE GREAT WESTERN GHOST TRAIN
A spooky footnote can be added to the Great Western Railway’s short-lived history in Achill Sound. Local folklore likes to tell how a 17th-century prophet named Brian Rua O’Cearbhain had a vision that one day ‘carts on wheels, blowing smoke and fire’ would run here, and that their first and last journeys would carry corpses.
Chillingly, just as work was completed on the rail line to Achill in 1894, tragedy struck when 32 young locals drowned in Clew Bay, and the very first train from Westport to Achill carried the bodies back to their grieving families. The prophecy was completed four decades later when the railway had already ceased to run. Ten migrant workers from Achill were killed in a fire at Kirkintilloch, Scotland in 1937. The railway line was reopened for one last run to bring the bodies back for burial.
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ACHILL ISLAND
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Ireland’s largest offshore island, Achill (An Caol), is connected to the mainland by a short bridge. Despite its accessibility, it has plenty of that far-flung-island feeling: soaring cliffs, rocky headlands, sheltered sandy beaches, broad expanses of blanket bog and rolling mountains. It also has its share of history, having been a frequent refuge during Ireland’s numerous rebellions.
Achill is at its most dramatic during winter, when high winds and lashing seas make the island seem downright