Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [376]
A quiet hamlet known as the Valley, whose rugged terrain is dotted with old stone houses, is the island’s most traditional quarter, while the village of Keel is the island’s main centre of activity.
Information
Most of the villages have post offices. The supermarkets in Keel and Achill Sound have ATMs.
Achill Computer Solutions ( 098-47940; Cashel; per hr €4; 9.15am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.15am-12.30pm & 1.30-4pm Sat) Internet access, hidden behind the Esso petrol station.
Achill Tourism ( 098-47353; www.achilltourism.com; Cashel; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri Jul & Aug, 10am-4pm Sep-Jun) One of the best sources for information in all Mayo.
Sights
The signposted Atlantic Drive (opposite) continues once you cross the bridge as an alternative route to the main roads along the island’s southern shore.
SLIEVEMORE DESERTED VILLAGE
The remains of this deserted village at the foot of Slievemore Mountain are slowly but surely being reduced down to rock piles, and are a poignant reminder of the island’s past hardships and a lost way of life. Until the mid-19th century, the village was divided between permanent inhabitants and transhumance farmers (known here as ‘booleying’), but as the Potato Famine took grip, starvation forced the villagers to the sea and its sources of food. The adjacent graveyard compounds the desolation.
DOOAGH
This village is where Don Allum, the first person to row across the Atlantic Ocean in both directions, landed in September 1982 in his 6m-long plywood boat, dubbed the QE3, after 77 days at sea. Opposite the memorial, the Pub (that’s its name) has memorabilia marking the feat.
Activities
Some of Achill’s scalloped bays are tame enough for swimming. Except in the height of the holiday season, the Blue Flag beaches at Dooega, Keem, Dugort and Golden Strand (Dugort’s other beach) are often deserted. The beaches at Dooagh and Dooniver are just as appealing.
The Blue Flag Keel beach is one of Ireland’s best surfing spots, but there are dangerous rips from its centre to the eastern end (under the Minaun Cliffs). Heed the signs and stick to the western half of the beach. Achill Adventures ( 098-43148; www.achilladventures.com; Slievemore Rd, Dugort) rents boards on Keel beach during July and August, and also organises canoe, kayak and dinghy rental. Windsurfing is also popular; Wind Wise ( 098-43958; www.windwise.ie) offers instruction and rents equipment.
The island is a wonderful place for walking. Mt Slievemore (672m) can be climbed from behind the deserted village for terrific views of Blacksod Bay. A longer climb takes in Mt Croaghaun (668m), Achill Head and a walk atop what locals claim are Europe’s highest sea cliffs (though Slieve League in County Donegal is thought to be marginally higher). Achill Tourism produces a Guide to Walking in Achill (€3.50) detailing 14 walks in Irish and English, which is also sold at Gielty’s Newsagent in Keel.
Sea-angling can be arranged with Tony Burke ( 098-47257; tmburke@eircom.net; Keel), owner of the 10m Cuan na Cuime. With its clear waters Achill is a prime diving spot and Achill Island Scuba Dive Centre ( 087 234 9884; www.achilldivecentre.com; Purteen Harbour, Keel) offers training and equipment hire.
To gallop along Achill’s broad beaches, contact Calvey’s Equestrian Centre ( 087 988 1093; www.calveysofachill.com; Slievemore), which also offers riding lessons.
Less energetic activities include summertime painting classes run by Ó’Dálaigh ( 098-36137; www.achillpainting.com). Instructor Seosamh Ó’Dálaigh will lead you to a scenic spot and offer pointers on how to commit it to canvas.
Festivals
Traditional Irish music resonates for miles in the first two weeks of August during the Scoil Acla Festival (www.scoilacla.com), which also has Irish dancing, culture and music workshops.
At the beginning of May, the island hosts