Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [399]
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ACTIVITIES
Boat Trips
The most enjoyable way to explore the highlights of Donegal Bay is to take one of the boat tours run by Donegal Bay Waterbus ( 074-972 3666; www.donegalbaywaterbus.com; Donegal Pier; adult/child €15/7). Aboard a 20m tour boat, the 1¼-hour tour covers everything from historic sites to seal-inhabited coves, admiring an island manor and a ruined castle along the way. The tour runs up to three times daily from Easter to October, and may be possible at other times depending on the weather.
Fishing
Permits are required for fishing in the local rivers. Kits and information are available from Doherty’s ( 074-972 1119; Main St; 9am-6pm Thu-Tue).
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SLEEPING
B&Bs are plentiful around Donegal town, but for high-end luxury you’ll need to head into the surrounding countryside.
Budget
Bluestack Centre ( 074-973 5564; www.donegalbluestacks.com; Drimarone; dm/f €17/50; ) This remote country hostel/community centre with squeaky-clean rooms and a basketball court is a handy jumping-off point for hikers tackling the Blue Stack Mountains. It’s often left unmanned, so call ahead. Follow the signposts 7km northwest of town.
Donegal Town Independent Hostel ( 074-972 2805; www.donegaltownhostel.com; Killybegs Rd, Doonan; dm €18, d with/without bathroom €46/42; ) Run by an energetic couple, rooms at this IHH hostel 1.2km northwest of town off the Killybegs Rd (N56) have quirky murals – from technicolour landscapes to glow-in-the-dark night skies –and some have water views.
Midrange & Top End
Bridges B&B ( 074-972 1082; thebridgesguesthouse@gmail.com; Waterloo Pl; s without bathroom €40, d with/without bathroom €70/60; ) Overlooking the castle and the river, behind this B&B’s crimson-painted door are five simple rooms kept spotless by friendly hosts Bernie and Steve McGrory. Bernie’s potato bread is a hit with guests at breakfast.
Ard na Breatha ( 074-972 2288; www.ardnabreatha.com; Drumrooske Middle; s €55-74, d €90-110; Feb-Oct; ) In an elevated setting 1.5km north of town, this boutique guesthouse has high-class rooms and organic fare straight from the farm (mains €17 to €28, five-course dinner €48.50), including vegetables, herbs, eggs, and lamb (plus beef from Ard na Breatha’s neighbours). Dinner is available at least Friday to Sunday by reservation.
Mill Park Hotel ( 074-972 2880; www.millparkhotel.com; The Mullins; s €75-99, d €118-178, apt from €275; ) Mill Park’s triple-height reception areas with timber and wrought-iron ceilings, gleaming slate floors and open fireplace are a decade old but have a timeless feel, as do the fresh citrus-toned guestrooms. The property also offers lunch (€7 to €14.50) and dinner (€13 to €24.50).
Abbey Hotel ( 074-972 1014; www.abbeyhoteldonegal.com; The Diamond; s €80-90, d €130-150; ) Housing 118 rooms, this enormous stone building surprises with its contemporary interior. Rooms out the back overlook the river. The hotel offers access to a gym and has a stylish restaurant and bar.
Central Hotel ( 074-972 1027; www.centralhoteldonegal.com; The Diamond; s €80-90, d €130-150; ) Next door to the Abbey, and run by the same owners, the aptly named Central has 112 rooms of its own behind a tomato-red facade, and also offers all mod cons and river views from rear rooms. There is regular live music in the bar. If you’re in town for a while, ask about its new self-catering apartments.
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EATING
Aroma ( 074-972 3222; Donegal Craft Village; dishes €4.50-12; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Hidden in the far corner of Donegal’s craft village, the name aptly describes the home baking and Donegal’s best coffee wafting through its tiny interior. Blackboard specials utilise seasonal local produce such as white wine