Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [400]
Donegal’s Famous Chipper ( 074-972 1428; Upper Main St; fish & chips €7-7.60; 4.30-11.30pm) Its fame spreads as far as the town limit, but this is an excellent place to grab an order of fried cod to eat at the Formica counter or to take to a nearby pub.
Blueberry Tearoom ( 074-972 2933; Castle St; mains €7-10; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Piping-hot pies and lunch specials dabbling in flavours from French to Cajun make this snug tearoom a local favourite.
La Bella Donna ( 074-972 5790; Bridge St; mains €9-25; dinner Tue-Sat) Lively and well-dressed crowds congregate at this smart two-storey place for pizza, pasta and its house speciality: fillet steak in rich gorgonzola sauce.
Market House ( 074-972 1014; Abbey Hotel, The Diamond; mains €17-28; lunch & dinner) Replete with tartan carpeting and stone walls, the Market House manages not to feel touristy or old-fashioned. The kitchen tackles surf and turf mainstays with a fresh, light and contemporary ethos.
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DRINKING
Reel Inn (Bridge St) The best craic in town is invariably found at this old-school pub. Its owner plays the button-box accordion, and his pals join him in traditional music sessions most nights.
Old Castle ( 074-972 1062; Castle St) Built to match the neighbouring castle with attractive stonework, corbel windows and a low wooden ceiling, this grey-stone pub is a relaxing spot to swap banter with locals.
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SHOPPING
Donegal Craft Village ( 074-972 2225; Ballyshannon Rd; 9am-6pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) You won’t find any canned leprechauns or Guinness T-shirts here. Instead, this little huddle of craft studios showcases pottery, ironwork, hand-woven fabrics, jewellery and more. It’s signposted 1.5km south of town.
Magee’s ( 074-972 2660; www.mageedonegal.com; The Diamond) One room of this small department store is devoted to Donegal tweed, which has been produced here since 1866.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus Éireann ( 074-913 1008; www.buseireann.ie) services connect Donegal with Sligo (€12.50, 1¼ hours, six daily), Galway (€18.90, 3½ hours, two to three daily) and Killybegs (€6.90, 35 minutes, three daily); Derry (€14.30, 1½ hours, seven Monday to Saturday, three Sunday) and Belfast (€19.50, 3½ hours, frequent); and Dublin (€17.60, four hours, six daily). The bus stop is on the western side of the Diamond.
Feda O’Donnell ( 074-954 8114; www.fedaodonnell.com) runs to Galway (single/return €20/30, 3½ hours, twice daily, three on Friday and Sunday) via Ballyshannon, Bundoran and Sligo. Call to confirm departure point. Fares within Donegal range from €7 to €20.
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GETTING AROUND
The Bike Shop ( 074-972 2515; Waterloo Pl; per day €10) rents bikes and has information on cycling in the area. Opening hours vary.
Contact Michael Gallagher for a taxi ( 074-972 3500).
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AROUND DONEGAL TOWN
LOUGH ESKE
Lough Eske translates as ‘Lake of the Fish’ and, although this hasn’t been the case of late, it’s due to be restocked with salmon and trout by the time you’re reading this. For fishing permits and boat hire, contact the Northern Regional Fisheries Board ( 074-972 1119; www.nrfb.ie). It’s terrific territory for cycling or walking over the majestic Blue Stack Mountains, but there’s no public transport.
Sleeping & Eating
Ardeevin Guest House ( 074-972 1790; http://ardeevin.tripod.com; Lough Eske; s/d €50/75; ) Great views of the lake are just one of this B&B’s selling points. In business for 40 years, it has evolved into a large rambling house with charming rooms and an old-fashioned garden. It’s 4km north of Donegal town off the Letterkenny road (N15). Take the second left and follow the signs.
Harvey’s Point Country Hotel ( 074-972 2208; www.harveyspoint.com; Harvey’s Point; s €109-210, d €158-320; closed Sun-Wed Nov-Christmas & early Jan-Mar; ) At the water’s edge, this elegant retreat is privately owned and run, and it’s evident in the pride taken by staff – from the kindly concierge