Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [401]
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WALK: BLUE STACK MOUNTAINS
If you’re not satisfied with admiring the Blue Stack Mountains from a distance, you can take a rewarding, though difficult, trek along a circuitous 18km path through wild and rugged terrain. A complete circuit takes about seven hours, and entails summiting several peaks. The highest, at 674m, is Blue Stack, from which the views of southern Donegal are spectacular. Alternatively, you can walk the short (though steep) distance to Eas Doonan waterfall, which drops some 30m. This walk can be done in about one hour. Note that in wet weather the trail can be boggy.
The trail head is easy to find, though it sounds complicated. Off the N15 from Donegal town, look for the signs for Lough Eske. There are three turnoffs, all leading to Lough Eske Dr. Follow the road anticlockwise towards the northern end of the lake, where the road hairpins twice. Off the second hairpin, take the small road leading to Edergole, where you’ll find a walker sign and space to park your car.
It would be wise to equip yourself with the Ordnance Survey Ireland 1:50,000 map No 11 covering this territory. The Mountain Views website (www.mountainviews.ie) is also a useful resource. Donegal’s tourist office has stacks of information for walkers.
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Solis Lough Eske Castle ( 074-972 5100; www.solislougheskecastle.com; d €250-275; closed Sun-Wed Nov-Mar; ) This slick operation rose from the ashes of the1861-built Lough Eske Castle, which was all but razed by fire. The shell of the ornate turret was salvaged, but most of the complex – minimalist rooms, a decadent spa and smart restaurant (three-course dinner €55) with champagne-coloured velour banquettes – is spanking new.
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ROSSNOWLAGH
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The gentle rollers at the 5km-long Blue Flag beach at Rossnowlagh (Ross Neamblach), 17km southwest of Donegal town, are great for learning to surf or honing your skills. Tuition and gear rental is available from Fin McCool Surf School ( 071-985 9020; www.donegalsurfing.com; gear rental per 3hr €25, 2hr lesson incl gear rental €35; 10am-7pm Easter-Oct, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun mid-Mar–Easter & Nov-Christmas). The school is headed up by Pro Tour surf judge Neil Britton, cousin of four-time Irish women’s champion Easkey Britton (who’s named after County Sligo’s surfing hotspot). In the school’s surf shop, flip through four decades of iconic posters drawn by Neil’s uncle, Barry Britton, for the Rossnowlagh Intercounty Surf Contest ( late Oct), Ireland’s largest and most social surf event.
Deep in the adjacent forest is a Franciscan friary ( 071-985 1342; admission free; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) with tranquil gardens; the way of the cross takes you through a hillside smothered with rhododendron to spectacular hilltop views.
The combined pub/restaurant/guesthouse Smugglers Creek ( 071-985 2367; smugcreek@eircom.net; s/d €60/100; Easter-Oct; ) perches on the hillside above the bay. It’s justifiably popular for its excellent food (mains €15 to €20) and sweeping views (room 4 has the best vantage point and a balcony into the bargain). There’s live music on summer weekends.
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WILD & WOOLLY
For centuries, Donegal’s weavers have been using techniques passed down through generations. The tradition springs from two key ingredients in abundant supply: natural dyes from wild-growing plants including pinky-red fuchsia, orange lichen, yellow gorse, dark-green moss and purple blackberries, and woolly sheep.
Places where you can see weaving in action:
Donegal Carpet Factory, Maritime & Heritage Centre, Killybegs
Studio Donegal, Kilcar
Glencolumbcille Woollen Mill, Glencolumbcille
Triona Design, Ardara
Eddie Doherty, Ardara
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Smugglers Creek’s owners also operate the nearby B&B Ardeelan Lodge ( 071-985 2367; smugcreek@eircom.net; s/d €50/70; Easter-Oct) in a cosy salmon-coloured building