Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [402]
Once an extravagant 19th-century fishing lodge, the beachside Sandhouse Hotel ( 071-985 1777; www.sandhouse-hotel.ie; d €180-250; Easter-Dec; ) has a festive atmosphere in its restaurant and bars, and a soothing marine spa. There are good deals on multiday stays.
Rossnowlagh isn’t served by public transport.
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BALLYSHANNON
pop 2686
Crawling up a steep incline above the River Erne, Ireland’s oldest market town, Ballyshannon (Béal Átha Seanaidh), received its royal charter in 1613. But human inhabitation goes back a lot further: archaeological excavations have unearthed Neolithic sites dating to around 4000 BC. The Bank of Ireland, with an ATM, and post office are both on Market St.
As a kid, the poet William Allingham (1824–89), who was born in Ballyshannon, scribbled his first attempts at verse on a window in the AIB bank on Castle St where his dad was the manager. Best remembered for his poem The Fairies, Allingham is buried in the graveyard beside St Anne’s Church, the grave marked simply ‘poet’. The church is signposted left off Main St after Dorrian’s Imperial Hotel.
In late May, the Rory Gallagher International Tribute Festival (www.goingtomyhometown.com) celebrates another native son, rock and blues guitarist Rory Gallagher, with over two dozen Irish and international artists and bands. The exuberant Ballyshannon Folk & Traditional Music Festival (www.ballyshannonfolkfestival.com) arrives for the August bank holiday weekend.
Sleeping & Eating
Lakeside Caravan & Camping ( 071-985 2822; www.donegalbay.com/caravan.html; Belleek Rd; campsites €18-25, electricity €5, showers €2; mid-Mar–late Oct) It’s worth a few extra euros for a pitch on the shores of beautiful Assaroe Lake at this four-star camping ground, which also has a cafe/restaurant and kayak rental. From Ballyshannon, take the N3 for 1km towards Belleek.
Breesy Centre ( 071-982 2925; www.breesycentre.com; Cashelard; dm/s/d €20/24/48, breakfast €6; ) In a remote (read: relaxing) setting 6km northeast of Ballyshannon, this 30-bed hostel has shiny-new rooms, most with private bathroom, and a spiffy kitchen and dining room. Head north on the N15, turn east after 5km (there’s a sign for Cashelard) and continue 1km; it’s diagonally opposite the Travellers Rest pub.
Cavangarden House ( 071-985 1365; www.littleireland.ie/cavangardenhouse; Donegal Rd; s/d €47/70, cottages €100; ) Amid expansive lawns and trees alive with birdsong, several of the six floral guestrooms at this Georgian house are split-level. Evening meals (€20) are available by arrangement. Take the N15 3km north of town and look for the signs.
Creevy Experience ( 071-985 2896; www.creevyexperience.com; Creevy, Ballyshannon; cottages per week €585-899; ) For a home away from home, these ecofriendly self-catering cottages are ideal. Each sleeps up to seven and comes with a ‘welcome pack’ of local produce and fairtrade coffee. Ask about weekend and midweek rates.
Shannon’s Corner ( 071-985 1180; Main St; mains €10-15; 8.30am-4.30pm) Locals pile into this unassuming bistro for its home-cooked lunches and smashing sarnies.
Drinking
Thatch Pub (Bishop St; approx Jun-Sep) Just off the top of Main St, this postcard-perfect pub is a great place to grab a pint and a few snapshots.
Year-round, traditional pubs that attract a lively local crowd include Fin McCool’s and Dicey Rileys, both on Main St (the latter has an extensive off-licence), and the Bridge End Bar on the Port, which regularly hosts live music.
Getting There & Away
There are regular daily Bus Éireann ( 074-912 1309) services to Bundoran (€2.40, 10 minutes), Donegal (€5.80, 25 minutes), Sligo (€10.30, 50 minutes), Galway (€18.90, 3½ hours) and Dublin (€17.60, 4½ hours; via Enniskillen, Cavan and Navan). The bus station is between the bridge and the Gallogley Jewellers clock tower.
Feda O’Donnell ( 074-974 8114) buses depart from opposite the bus station for Donegal (€7, 15 minutes) and Letterkenny (€10, one hour) twice daily, four times on Friday. For Sligo (€9, 45 minutes) and