Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [403]
* * *
ON BOARD
Irish surf champion Fergal Smith (www.fergalsmith.com), who won the title in 2007 and 2009, has surfed his way around five continents and numerous paradisaical tropical islands. He admits that ‘Ireland’s not good on the whole as a surf destination because of the weather’, but says, ‘when it’s working, it’s better than anywhere’.
Fergal grew up on his parents’ organic farm in County Mayo, hitting the waves with his dad and brother at weekends and holidays at nearby Achill Island Click here. ‘We surfed by ourselves, so I was blown away when I met professional surfers and realised I was at their level.’ He was snapped up for the Irish team and is now a sponsored professional himself, dividing his time between comps and documenting epic rides with two Cornish filmmaker/photographers and fellow surfers, Tom Lowe and Mickey Smith. The climate means that ‘Ireland has a different surfing vibe’, Fergal says. ‘There’s no surf industry or surf media or “scene”. The waves here are such quality; we don’t want to make it a circus.’ Instead, documenting it is ‘a true reflection of what it takes to get those amazing waves and surf them to their full potential’.
In the northwest, Fergal’s top surf spots include Bundoran (above): ‘it’s a built-up area, but when it’s good it’s world-class’; Easkey Click here, ‘because it handles all kinds of weather and has loads of types of reefs’; and, ‘for fun waves’, the beach breaks of Elly Bay Click here and Louisburgh Click here, as well as Dunfanaghy Click here.
Spring is Fergal’s favourite time to surf the Irish coast, because ‘the waves are still good, but it’s not busy and it stays light until late’. Even in winter, ‘the water temperature is usually fine, but it’s hard paddling in howling wind and rain. In summer you can use a 3/2 wetsuit, but in winter you need a 6/4 with a built-in hood, good boots and gloves…and hot tea!’
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
BUNDORAN
pop 1964
If you’re after ends-of-the-earth wilderness, you’ll probably want to skip the blinking amusement arcades, hurdy-gurdy fairground rides and fast-food diners of Bundoran (Bun Dobhráin). But if you’re looking for a cheery seaside atmosphere – as well as scenic walks and superb surf – Donegal’s best-known seaside resort fits the bill. Outside summer, the carnival atmosphere abates and the town can be very quiet.
Information
Bundoran centres on one long main street just back from the beach. The western end is less commercial.
AIB (Allied Irish Bank; Main St) Has an ATM and bureau de change.
Post office (Main St)
Tourist office ( 071-984 1350; bundoran@irelandnorthwest.ie; The Bridge, Main St; Jun-Sep, hr vary annually) Glass-paned kiosk opposite the Holyrood Hotel.
Activities
SURFING
Bundoran has two main surf spots: ‘the Peak’, an imposing reef break directly in front of the town, which should only be attempted by highly experienced surfers, and the less formidable beach break at Tullan Strand, just north of the town centre.
Bundoran hosts the annual Irish National Surfing Championships (www.isasurf.ie), which are usually held in April. For Irish surf champ Fergal Smith’s insider tips, Click here.
The town has three surf schools, each of which rents gear and has its own lodge accommodation:
Bundoran Surf Co ( 071-984 1968; www.bundoransurfco.com; surf lessons per 3hr €35, gear rental per day €20, dm/s/d €20/40/50) Offers deals on surf and accommodation packages.
Donegal Adventure Centre ( 071-984 2418; www.donegal-holidays.com; Bay View Ave; surf lessons per 3hr €25, gear rental per 2hr €10, dm €20-25) Youth-oriented place that also offers kayaking and gorge walking. The dorm beds are used mainly by groups, but it also owns Homefield Hostel (below), catering for independent travellers.
Turf n Surf ( 071-984 1091; www.turfnsurf.ie; Main St; surf lessons per 3hr €35, gear rental per day €20, dm/d €20/50) Also runs