Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [404]
HORSE RIDING
The family-run Donegal Equestrian Holidays ( 071-984 1977; www.donegalequestrianholidays.com), 1km north of the town, offers rides over the dunes and along the beach (two-hour ride per adult/child €48/58) and lessons for all levels (from €30). Reserve ahead.
WATER ACTIVITIES
Bundoran’s Blue Flag beach isn’t safe for swimming, so the place to do it is Waterworld ( 071-984 1172; www.waterworldbundoran.com; adult/child under 8 €10.50/8; from 10am Sat & Sun mid-Apr–May & Sep, daily Jun-Aug & school holidays), with wave pools and water slides. It’s on the waterfront. Also on the premises, Aquamara ( 071-984 1173; baths from €22.50; from 11am Sat & Sun mid-Apr–May & Sep, daily Jun-Aug) provides a decidedly more sedate form of bathing in its seaweed baths. Click here for more on Irish seaweed therapy.
Sleeping
The tourist office here or in Donegal town can help with accommodation across all price ranges. Nonsurfers are welcome at Bundoran’s three surf school lodges (above).
Homefield Hostel ( 071-984 1288; homefield@indigo.ie; Bayview Ave; dm €20-25, d €50; ) Once Viscount Enniskillen’s holiday pad, this 260-year-old building later served as an altogether more restrained convent. It’s now closer to its original purpose, housing a 60-bed rock-themed hostel, with vinyl records on the walls and a piano. Rooms are in good nick and there are lots of cosy lounges.
Fitzgerald’s Hotel ( 071-984 1336; www.fitzgeraldshotel.com; s/d €75/100; closed Dec–mid-Feb; ) Awesome ocean views extend from some of the 16 spacious rooms at this stylish boutique hotel across the street from the strand. Lock-up parking is a big bonus.
Eating
Gastronomy isn’t Bundoran’s strong suit, but there are a couple of stand-out places.
Fitzgerald’s Bistro (Fitzgerald’s Hotel; mains €17.50-24.50; dinner Wed-Sun, closed Dec–mid-Feb) Opening onto a garden out the back of Fitzgerald’s Hotel, this plush bistro looks a little like a hunting lodge. Although seafood is the specialty, the kitchen is equally adept with meat and veg.
La Sabbia ( 071-984 2253; Bay View Ave; mains €17.50-25.50; dinner nightly Jun-Sep, Thu-Sun Oct-May) This colourful cottage decorated with striking contemporary art has tables spilling out onto the front porch and attracts a lively, upbeat crowd. It’s run by a Milanese chef, whose hometown specials include delicious risottos as well as crispy pizzas, and pasta dishes like porcini-filled ravioli.
Drinking
Maddens Ould Bridge Bar ( 071-984 2050; www.maddensbridgebar.com; Main St) At the western end of town, this surfers’ hangout has traditional music sessions on Thursdays (more in summer) and fantastic craic.
Brennan’s Criterion Bar ( 071-984 1810; Main St) A quiet and neighbourly old pub in the heart of town, Brennan’s is a refreshing departure from the brash and spangly places up the street.
Chasin’ Bull ( 071-41988; www.myspace.com/thechasinbull; Main St) Up-and-coming Irish and international bands gig at this good-time pub.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 074-912 1309) buses stop twice on Main St, outside the Phoenix Tavern, and the Celtic Bar. Direct daily services include Donegal (€6.90, 40 minutes), Sligo (€8.90, 45 minutes) and Galway (€18.90, 2¼ hours).
Northern Ireland’s Ulsterbus/Translink ( 028-9066 6630; www.translink.co.uk) has up to three buses daily to Belfast (3½ hours) via Enniskillen (1¼ hours).
Feda O’Donnell ( 074-974 8114) buses from Crolly (€10, 2½ hours) travelling to Galway (€20, three hours) stop in Bundoran outside the Holyrood Hotel twice daily and three times on Friday and Sunday.
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SOUTHWESTERN DONEGAL
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MOUNTCHARLES TO BRUCKLESS
Donegal’s scenery-o-meter starts to crank up when you reach the coast, just west of Donegal town, and steadily intensifies as you head north. Apart from a scattering of pubs and cafes, there are few places to eat (especially in winter), so stock up before leaving Donegal town or Killybegs.
Mountcharles
pop 497
This hillside village of Mountcharles (Moin Séarlas)