Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [406]
Several operators offer fishing expeditions with the opportunity to catch pollack, cod and whiting. Killybegs Angling Charters ( 074-973 1144; www.killybegsangling.com; Blackrock Pier) runs fishing charters (€450 for the boat) and rents fishing gear (from €15 per day). Alternatively you can buy rods, reels and tackle at the Harbour Store ( 074-973 2122; The Harbour), by the wharf.
Secluded Fintragh Bay, about 3km west and down a big-dipper of a road, is enchanting to explore and the water is clean and safe for swimming.
Tours
The free Killybegs Heritage Trail brochure plots 14 historic points of interest around town. Also free is a map outlining six looped walks in the area, ranging from 3.5km to 8km. Both are available from the Maritime & Heritage Centre, tourist office, and from accommodation in town.
Killybegs-based archaeologist Derek Vial ( 087 275 7183; www.tourdonegal.ie) runs small tours of up to five people around Donegal’s southwest, with extensive and entertaining commentary about the area’s tombs, forts, thatched cottages and natural history. Four-hour tours cost from €30 per person.
Sleeping
Ritz ( 074-973 1309; www.theritz-killybegs.com; Chapel Brae; dm/d/f €20/60/70; ) The name might be ironic, but this superbly run 38-bed IHO hostel in the town centre has ritzy facilities including an enormous kitchen with an island workbench and dishwasher, colourful rooms with private bath and TVs, and a laundry. Continental breakfast is included.
Seawinds B&B ( 074-973 2003; www.seawindsireland.com; The Diamond; s/d €50/70; ) Multitalented host Patricia Faherty paints the watercolours that adorn this cheery B&B’s rooms and can organise painting lessons for guests. Patricia is also a trained cook and whips up wholesome evening meals (€12 to €15) by request.
Tara Hotel ( 074-974 1700; www.tarahotel.ie; Main St; s €80, d €130-140; ) Just a few skips from the harbour, the Tara gives Killybegs an unexpected tinge of minimalist chic. Ask for one of six sea-view rooms with balcony (costing €10 extra in summer).
Eating
Shines Takeaway ( 074-973 1996; Killybegs; fish & chips €7.50; 11am-2pm, 4-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri, 4pm-2am Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun) If you’re craving something with gills and fins by now, salt down a serve of cod and chips from this spick-and-span chipper and head to the beach.
Kitty Kelly’s ( 074-973 1925; Kilcar Rd; mains €16-20; dinner May-Sep) Dining at this restaurant in a 200-year-old, plum-coloured farmhouse feels more like attending an intimate dinner party. The menu is a gourmet take on traditional Irish favourites like rich stew and creamy trifle. It’s on the coast road, 5km west of Killybegs. Opening hours vary annually; bookings are essential.
22 Main Street ( 074-973 2876; Main St; mains €16.50-24.50; dinner) Owned by the same local celeb as Kitty Kelly’s, TV presenter Noel Cunningham, this Mediterranean-style bistro offers the same quality but a less formal ambience and more reliable opening hours. Piping hot seafood pies and prime Irish beef are among its specialities, along with innovative chocolate or espresso ‘martinis’ for dessert.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 074-913 1008) service 492 to Donegal (€7.60, 30 minutes) from Killybegs runs four times daily Monday to Saturday. Bus 490 heads west to Kilcar (€3.90, 20 minutes) and Glencolumbcille (€7.60, 45 minutes) once daily Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and twice on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
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KILCAR, CARRICK & AROUND
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Kilcar (Cill Chártha) and its more attractive neighbour Carrick (An Charraig) make good bases for exploring the breathtaking coastline of southwestern Donegal, especially the stunning sea cliffs at Slieve League.
This is fantastic walking country, particularly if you don’t mind hoofing up and down a few hills. Kilcar Tourism has some pointers for walking the Kilcar Way; ask at the Aísleann Cill Cartha