Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [407]
Local information is available at the excellent cultural centre, the Tí Linn Centre ( 074-973 9077; www.sliabhleague.com; Teelin, Carrick; 10.30am-5.30pm daily Easter-Sep, Fri-Tue Feb-Easter & Oct-Nov), in Teelin (Tí Linn), which also has an artisan cafe, and art and craft gallery.
Sights & Activities
SLIEVE LEAGUE
The Cliffs of Moher get more publicity, but the sea cliffs at Slieve League are higher. In fact, these spectacular polychrome cliffs are thought to be the highest in Europe, plunging some 600m to the sea. Looking down, you’ll see two rocks nicknamed the school desk and chair by locals for reasons that are immediately obvious. From the lower car park, there’s a path skirting up around the near-vertical rock face to the aptly named One Man’s Pass. You can now also drive all the way to the top, where there’s a new car park. Be aware that mist and rain can roll in unexpectedly and rapidly, making conditions treacherous.
Take the turn-off signposted Bunglass from the R263 at Carrick, 5km northwest of Kilcar, and continue beyond the narrow track that’s signposted Slieve League to the one that’s signposted Bunglass.
The cliffs are, if possible, even more impressive when viewed from the ocean below. Sightseeing boat trips along the Slieve League cliffs can be arranged by contacting Nuala Star Teelin ( 074-973 9365; www.nualastarteelin.com; Mar-Oct, weather permitting). Prices are €20 to €50 per person, depending on numbers, with reductions for children. The 12-seater boat departs from the Teelin pier approximately every two hours. Sea angling and diving trips can also be arranged.
STUDIO DONEGAL
Beside Kilcar’s community centre tweeds are spun and loomed by hand at Studio Donegal ( 074-973 8194; www.studiodonegal.ie; Glebe Mill, Kilcar; admission free; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri year-round plus 9.30am-5pm Sat Easter-Oct). Visitors are often invited upstairs to see spinners and weavers in action.
WALKING
Three walks starting in Kilcar are collectively known as the Kilcar Way. From Teelin, experienced walkers can spend a day walking north via Bunglass and the clifftop to Malinbeg, near Glencolumbcille. It shouldn’t be attempted in windy conditions or if bad weather is likely to impede visibility.
The Tí Linn Centre (left) organises guided hill walks and archaeological walks. Prices start from €100; it works out cheaper if there are a few of you travelling together.
Sleeping & Eating
Derrylahan Hostel ( 074-973 8079; derrylahan@eircom.net; Derrylahan, Kilcar; camping €8 per person, dm/d €16/40; ) On a working farm, this rustic, well-run IHH hostel has comfortable rooms with private bath as well as a 20-person bunk house and plenty of scenic spots to pitch a tent. Bike rental (€20) can be organised if you book ahead. Located 3km west of the village on the coast road. Pick-ups can be arranged.
Dún Ulún House ( 074-973 8137; dunulunhouse@eircom.net; Coast Rd; campsites €10, dm €15-20, d €45-50; ) The sweeping view down to a ruined ring fort is what strikes you first about this family-run hostel/B&B. Accommodation is simple but homey, and the family can arrange Irish lessons and help with genealogy. Breakfast (€8) is optional. A little camping ground is ensconced in the tiered hillside. It’s 1km west of the village.
Ocean Spray ( 074-973 8438; www.littleireland.ie/oceanspray; Muckross, Kilcar; s/d €40/70; ) Following a series of signs through rolling stone-walled green fields brings you to this cosy home with three sparkling rooms. It’s a five-minute walk to glorious surf beaches. Heading west, take the first left after the Blue Haven hotel for 3.5km, then left again for 500m.
Blue Haven ( 074-973 8090; www.bluehaven.ie; Kilcar-Killybegs Rd; mains €14.50-26; dinner Mon-Fri, noon-9.30pm Sat & Sun late Apr-Oct, noon-9.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-late Apr) Blue Haven’s modern restaurant nevertheless focuses on time-honoured ‘home cooking’. The place can be quite festive,