Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [41]
* * *
If you want to know your natural-rind goat’s cheese from your semisoft washed-rind cow’s cheese, you’ll find enlightenment and a complete list of Irish cheesemakers at www.irishcheese.ie.
* * *
The Fry
Perhaps the most feared Irish speciality is the fry – the heart attack on a plate that is the second part of so many B&B deals. In spite of the hysterical health fears, the fry is still one of the most common traditional meals in the country. Who can say no to a plate of fried bacon, sausages, black pudding, white pudding, eggs and tomatoes? For the famous Ulster fry, common throughout the North, simply add fadge (potato bread).
Return to beginning of chapter
DRINKS
Nonalcoholic Drinks
TEA
The Irish drink more tea, per capita, than any other nation in the world and you’ll be offered a cup as soon as you cross the threshold of any Irish home. It’s a leveller and an ice-breaker, and an appreciation for ‘at least a cup in your hand’ is your passport to conviviality here. Preferred blends are very strong, and nothing like the namby-pamby versions that pass for Irish breakfast tea elsewhere.
* * *
FINDING THE BEST IRISH FOOD & DRINK
Unearthing the best of Ireland’s food and drink will add to your enjoyment of the country as a whole. Try and visit one of the artisan producers, like a cheesemaker’s, smoke house or brewery-pub; most producers are happy to talk you through the process and offer tastings.
The next best thing is to go to a farmers market and get a real insight into what’s being grown in the area and what’s in season. Ask the stallholders, often the producers themselves, what the best local food is and which restaurants are doing it justice.
If you keep your eyes open, you’ll realise there’s more to Irish beer than just the popular mainstream brands. Look out for those pubs serving speciality beers on draught – it shows they’re serious about their brews (see the boxed text, Click here).
We’ve included details of local producers in the regional chapters, but these are just the tip of the iceberg. Use the following resources and ask in local shops to track down others. Be sure to phone before turning up so the producers can set aside time to show you around.
www.bestofbridgestone.com Extensive coverage of artisan producers plus the best restaurants serving their produce.
www.bordbia.ie Irish food board website, with a few local producers listed, as well as a comprehensive list of farmers markets.
Good Food in Cork Excellent annual booklet detailing artisan producers in Cork, established by Myrtle Allen; pick it up from the Farmgate Café Click here in Cork city; also available online at www.corkfreechoice.com.
www.irishcheese.ie The farmhouse cheesemakers’ association, with every small dairy covered.
www.slowfoodireland.com Organisation supporting small producers, with social events across Ireland.
Finally, get off the beaten track – wander away from the main tourist centres and you’ll find some delightful hidden pubs, farm shops and restaurants waiting to be discovered.
* * *
RED LEMONADE
This product, basically a regular glass of lemonade with colouring, has been produced in Ireland since the end of the 19th century and is still made to virtually the same recipe today. Always more popular in the Republic than the North, it’s a favourite for adults and children alike. It’s commonly used as a mixer with brandy and whiskey.
* * *
TOP FIVE IRISH CHEESES
Ardrahan Flavoursome farmhouse creation with a rich, nutty taste.
Corleggy Subtle, pasteurised goats cheese from County Cavan.
Durrus A creamy, fruity cheese, beloved of fine-food fans Click here.
Cashel Blue Creamy blue cheese from Tipperary.
Cooleeney Award-winning Camembert-style cheese.
* * *
Alcoholic Drinks
Drinking in Ireland is no mere social activity: it’s the foundation on which Irish culture is built. Along with its wonderful drinks, this fact helps to explain why, through centuries of poverty and oppression, the Irish have always retained their reputation