Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [42]
* * *
My Goodness! The Book of Guinness Advertising, by Jim Davies, is a collection of Guinness’ finest posters from the 1920s to the end of the 20th century.
* * *
STOUT
Of all Ireland’s drinks, the ‘black stuff’ is the most celebrated. While Guinness has become synonymous with stout the world over, few outside Ireland realise that there are two other major producers competing for the favour of the Irish drinker: Murphy’s and Beamish & Crawford, both based in Cork city. More exciting still is the recent re-emergence of independent Irish brewers (Guinness, Murphy’s and Beamish & Crawford are no longer Irish owned) – see the boxed text, Click here, to whet your appetite.
* * *
Guinness Is Guinness: The Colourful Story of a Black and White Brand by Mark Griffiths delves into the origins and eventual worldwide dispersion of the great stout. Guinness devotees will find it colourful and insightful.
* * *
OTHER IRISH BEERS
Beamish Red Ale This traditional-style red ale, brewed in Cork city by Beamish & Crawford, is sweet and palatable.
Caffrey’s Irish Ale One of the most exciting additions to Ireland’s beer map, this creamy ale has only been around since 1994. Brewed in County Antrim, it’s a robust cross between a stout and an ale.
Kinsale Irish Lager Brewed in the eponymous County Cork town, this golden-coloured lager has a slightly bitter taste that fades after a few sips.
McCardles Traditional Ale This wholesome, dark, nutty ale is hard to come by, but worthy of an exploration.
Smithwick’s Smithwick’s is a lovely, refreshing full scoop with a charming history. It’s brewed in Kilkenny (Click here), on the site of the 14th-century St Francis Abbey in what is Ireland’s oldest working brewery.
WHISKEY
While whiskey shares only equal billing with stout as the national drink of Ireland, in the home it is paramount. At last count, there were almost 100 different types of Irish whiskey, brewed by only three distilleries – Jameson’s, Bushmills and Cooley’s. A visit to Ireland reveals a depth of excellence that will make the connoisseur’s palate spin, while winning over many new friends to what the Irish call uisce beatha (water of life).
* * *
Established in 1608, Bushmills in County Antrim is the world’s oldest legal distillery (Click here). By the time of Bushmills’ official opening, whiskey was already exceedingly popular among the common people of Ireland.
* * *
IRISH COFFEE
Stories about the origin of Irish coffee abound but the most common one credits Joe Sheridan, a barman at Shannon airport, with the creation in the 1940s. All travellers arriving in Ireland from the USA would stop over in Shannon for an hour or two before heading on to their final destination. Landing in the bracing cold, shivering passengers used to approach Sheridan looking for an alcoholic drink and something that might heat them up. He hit upon the winning blend of Irish whiskey and piping hot coffee, topped with rich cream. It was just the trick then, and still is today.
POITÍN
Making poitín (illicit whiskey) has a folkloric respect in Ireland. Those responsible came to be regarded as heroes of the people, rather than outlaws of the land as the authorities tried to brand them. In tourist and duty-free shops, you’ll see a commercial brand of poitín, which is strictly a gimmick for tourists. Don’t bother: it’s just an inferior spirit with little to credit it. There are still poitín makers plying their trade in the quieter corners of Ireland. It is not uncommon in Donegal, the poitín capital, for deals to be sealed or favours repaid with a drop of the ‘cratur’. In the quiet, desolate, peaty bogs of Connemara, a plume of smoke rising into the sky may not just be a warming fire. Or in West Cork, one of the most fiercely patriotic and traditional pockets of Ireland, a friend of a friend may know something about it.
* * *
The Bridgestone guides (www.bestofbridgestone.com) are a well-respected series of Irish food guides written by a husband-and-wife team.