Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [414]
Unfortunately, the walk is not waymarked so an OS Sheet 1 of the area is invaluable.
Sleeping & Eating
Sleepy Hollows Campsite ( 074-954 8272; www.sleepyhollows.ie; Meenaleck, Crolly; campsites per adult/child €10/5; ) The 12 grassy tent sites at this friendly, family-run campground are in secluded woods, thoughtfully removed from the five caravan sites. Due to its diminutive size, bookings are essential. Take the airport turn-off from the village of Crolly and follow the signs 200m past Leo’s Tavern.
Bunbeg House (Teach na Céidhe; 074-953 1305; www.bunbeghouse.com; s/d €50/80; guesthouse Easter-Oct, tearoom Jun-Aug; ) Reminiscent of Italy’s Cinque Terre, this tucked-away guesthouse, in a converted corn mill, sits directly by Bunbeg harbour, within earshot of wooden boats knocking against each other. Nonguests can pop in for home-cooked chowder, fishermen’s pie or open crab sandwiches at its summertime tearoom, or soak up the sun on the terrace over a pint.
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‘LEGOLAND’
Donegal’s pre-Christian tombs and other prehistoric titbits date back as far as 9000 years. But it was the arrival of the Celts and their fort-building endeavours that provided the origins of the county’s Irish name, Dún na nGall (Fort of the Foreigner).
During the Celtic Tiger years, this took on an altogether different meaning, with cashed-up Dublin developers building holiday homes in some of Donegal’s most pristine beauty spots. Stretches of the coastline have fallen prey to a blitz of bungalows (generally a euphemism for two- or three-storey ‘McMansion’ homes). These rows of identikit houses have clearly diminished the natural beauty of some parts of the county over the past two decades. Areas such as the Bloody Foreland, long celebrated for its stunning sunset views, are now known as ‘Legoland’.
An estimated 40% of the county’s homes lie empty for much of the year. In an effort to limit the damage to Donegal’s natural environment, county officials have pressed for tighter zoning laws that stipulate future development be restricted to full-time residents. However, the downturn of the country’s economy is having an even bigger impact. Numerous new-builds (some still unfinished), plastered with ‘for sale’ and ‘for rent’ signs, lie vacant year-round for now.
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Seaview Hotel (Óstán Radharc na Mara; 074-953 1159; www.visitgweedore.com/seaview.htm; Bunbeg; s/d from €80/140; ) This 1904-built hotel on the main road was completely revamped a century later. Its beachfront location is unbeatable. It has 36 spacious rooms, as well as good food at its bar, Tábhairne Hughie Tim (mains €13 to €24.50, open from 12.30pm to 9pm) and its stylishly contemporary restaurant, Gola Bistro (three-course menu €35, open for dinner Friday and Saturday).
Leo’s Tavern also does good food.
Entertainment
You never know who’ll drop by for one of the legendary singalongs at Leo’s Tavern ( 074-954 8143; Meenaleck, Crolly). It’s owned by Leo and Baba Brennan, parents of Enya and her siblings Máire, Ciaran and Pól (the core of the group Clannad). The pub glitters with gold, silver and platinum discs and various other mementos of the successful kids. At Crolly, take the R259 1km towards the airport, and look for the signs for Leo’s.
Getting There & Away
Feda O’Donnell ( 074-954 8114) runs a service twice daily (three Friday and Sunday) from Gweedore to Letterkenny (€7, 1½ hours), Donegal (€10, 1¾ hours), Sligo (€12, 3¼ hours) and Galway (€20, 5½ hours).
Ferries depart Bunbeg for Tory Island (see opposite).
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BLOODY FORELAND
Named for the crimson colour of the rocks at sunset, Bloody Foreland (Cnoc Fola) is a spectacular stretch of coast…or at least it was until holiday homes mushroomed across the horizon (see the boxed text, above). Still, the coast road north and south of here remains wonderfully remote and ideal for cycling. Experienced surfers will find plenty of challenging waves, but you’ll need to bring your own gear.
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TORY ISLAND
pop 170
Swept by sea winds and stung by salt