Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [415]
So it’s no surprise that Tory is one of the last places in Ireland to hold onto traditional Irish culture instead of simply paying lip service to it. The island has its own dialect of Irish and even has an elected ‘king’, and over the decades its inhabitants had a reputation for distilling and smuggling contraband poitín (a peaty whiskey). However, the island is perhaps best known for its ‘naive’ (or outsider) artists, many of whom have attracted the attention of international collectors (see the boxed text, opposite).
In 1974, after an eight-week storm that lashed the island mercilessly, the government made plans to evacuate Tory permanently. Father Diarmuid Ó Peícín came to the rescue, spearheading an international campaign to raise funds, create a proper ferry service, establish an electrical supply and more. The demise of the fishing industry has brought its own share of problems, but the community still doggedly perseveres.
The island has just one pebbly beach and two recognisable villages: West Town (An Baile Thiar), containing most of the island’s facilities, and East Town (An Baile Thoir). Its eastern end is dominated by jagged quartzite crags like colossal keys, while the southwest slopes down to wave-washed bedrock.
Information is available from the Tory Island Co-op (Comharchumann Thoraí Teo; 074-913 5502; www.oileanthorai.com; 9am-5pm) near the pier, next to the playground. At the time of research, a new tourist office was also due to open – check with the Co-op for updates.
Sights & Activities
Cottages mingle with ancient ecclesiastical treasures in West Town. St Colmcille is said to have founded a monastery here in the 6th century, and reminders of the early Church are scattered throughout the town. One example is the 12th-century Tau Cross, an odd, T-shaped cruciform that suggests the possibility of seafaring exchanges with early Coptic Christians from Egypt. The cross greets passengers disembarking from the ferry. Also nearby is a 6th- or 7th-century round tower, with a circumference of nearly 16m and a round-headed doorway high above the ground.
The island is a wondrous place for birdwatching – over 100 species of sea bird inhabit the island, and among the cliffs in the northeast you can see colonies of puffins (around 1400 are thought to inhabit the island).
Sleeping & Eating
Teach Bhillie/Tory Hostel ( 074-916 5145; www.toraigh.net; West Town; dm/s/d €20/35/50) From the ferry, walk 300m left to find this cheery B&B that also offers shared, hostel-style accommodation. Spotless rooms are enlivened with bright splashes of colour, and linen and a light continental breakfast are included.
Graceanne Duffy’s ( 074-913 5136; East Town; d with/without bathroom €70/66; May-Oct) Peacefully situated in the smaller of Tory’s two villages, Graceanne’s B&B has three simple but comfortable bedrooms (two with private bath). Evening meals (€16, by arrangement) include organic produce.
Caife an Chreagain ( 074-913 5856; West Town; mains €10-15, 3-course menu €20; 10am-10.30pm Easter-Sep) If that sea air has given you an appetite, head for Mary’s welcoming cafe/restaurant, offering great value for money. Outside the summer months (June to August), opening times can vary depending on the weather (and, by extension, the ferries).
Entertainment
Club Sóisialta Thórai (Tory Social Club; 074-916 5121; West Town) The island’s social life revolves around this merry spot, which is the island’s only pub. Opening times vary, but it usually gets going from around 8pm.
Getting There & Around
Bring waterproofs for the trip – it can be a wild ride. Donegal Coastal Cruises (Turasmara Teo; 074-953 1340) runs boats to Tory (adult/child/student return €26/15/20)