Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [417]
Drinking & Entertainment
Loistin Na Seamroige (Shamrock Lodge; 074-913 5057; Main St, Falcarragh) Owner Margaret grew up on these premises, and her pub is the town’s living room, especially on Friday mornings, when a market sets up outside the front door, and during July and August when there’s traditional music.
Teach Ruairi ( 074-913 5428; Beltany, Gortahork) Fronted by red wagon wheels and red shutters, this authentic-as-it-gets pub is tucked 2km west of Gortahork. It is signposted off the Gweedore road and has regular live acoustic music.
Getting There & Away
Feda O’Donnell ( 074-954 8114) buses from Crolly stop on Main St, Falcarragh (€7, twice daily Monday to Saturday, three daily Friday and Sunday). From Falcarragh buses continue to Letterkenny (€7, one hour) and Galway (€20, 5¼ hours).
John McGinley ( 074-913 5201; www.johnmcginley.com) buses from Annagry to Dublin (€20, five hours) stop at Gortahork and Falcarragh two to four times daily.
Return to beginning of chapter
DUNFANAGHY & AROUND
pop 316
Clustered around the waterfront, Dunfanaghy’s small, attractive town centre has a surprisingly wide range of accommodation and some of the finest dining options in the county’s northwest. Glistening beaches, dramatic coastal cliffs, mountain trails and forests are all within a few kilometres.
There are no ATMs in town but the post office (Main St) has a bureau de change.
Sights
HORN HEAD
The towering headland of Horn Head (Corrán Binne) has some of Donegal’s most spectacular coastal scenery and plenty of birdlife. Its dramatic quartzite cliffs, covered with bog and heather, rear over 180m high, and the view from their tops is heart-pounding.
The road circles the headland; the best approach by bike or car is in a clockwise direction from the Falcarragh end of Dunfanaghy. On a fine day, you’ll encounter tremendous views of Tory, Inishbofin, Inishdooey and tiny Inishbeg islands to the west; Sheep Haven Bay and the Rosguill Peninsula to the east; Malin Head to the northeast; and the coast of Scotland beyond. Take care in bad weather as the route can be perilous.
ARDS FOREST PARK
Anyone looking to stretch their legs will love this forested park ( 074-912 1139; admission free), which is criss-crossed by marked nature trails varying in length from 2km to 13km. It covers the northern shore of the Ards Peninsula and some of the best walks lead to its clean beaches. The woodlands are home to several native species, including ash, birch and sessile oak. Introduced species, both broadleaf and conifer, also proliferate, and you may even encounter foxes, hedgehogs and otters. In 1930 the southern part of the peninsula was taken over by Capuchin monks; the grounds of their friary are open to the public. It’s 5km southeast of Dunfanaghy off the N56; daily closing times are posted at the entrance.
DUNFANAGHY WORKHOUSE
This grim building was the local workhouse, built to keep and employ the destitute. Conditions were excessively harsh. Men, women, children and the sick were segregated and their lives were dominated by gruelling work. It was soon inundated with starving people as the Famine took grip. Two years after it opened in 1845, it accommodated some 600 people – double the number originally planned.
The workhouse, west of the centre, is now a heritage centre ( 074-913 6540; www.dunfanaghyworkhouse.ie; Main St; adult/child €4.50/2; 10.30am-5pm daily Jul & Aug, 11am-4pm Mon-Sat Mar-Jun & Sep, call for hours Oct-Feb), which tells the powerful tale of ‘Wee Hannah’ and her passage through the institution, and also hosts various temporary exhibitions and workshops. On some mornings the place is overrun with busloads of school children.
DUNFANAGHY GALLERY
Just up the road from the heritage centre, Dunfanaghy Gallery ( 074-913 6224; Main St; admission free; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) started life as a fever hospital. The gallery has several rooms, which