Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [418]
DOE CASTLE
Although the interior of the early 16th-century Doe Castle (Caisléan na dTuath; Creeslough; approx 10am-6pm) isn’t open to the public, locals open the gates each day, allowing you to wander through the grounds. The castle was the stronghold of the Scottish MacSweeney family until it fell into English hands in the 17th century. The castle is picturesquely sited on a low promontory with water on three sides and a moat hewn out of the rock on the landward side. The best view is from the Carrigart–Creeslough road. It’s signposted 16km from Dunfanaghy on the Carrigart road.
CREESLOUGH & MUCKISH MOUNTAIN
When it’s not shrouded in the cloud and mist that locals call smir, hulking Muckish Mountain (670m) makes a good climb. You can reach it via the village of Creeslough, 11km south of Dunfanaghy on the N56, and home to an extraordinary modern church, resembling a half-dissolved sugar cube that mirrors the mountain’s shape. Turn right about 2km northwest of Creeslough and continue for about 6km, where a rough track begins the ascent.
BEACHES
The wide, sandy and virtually empty Killyhoey Beach leads right into the heart of Dunfanaghy village. Marble Hill Beach, about 3km east of town in Port-na-Blagh, is more secluded but usually crammed in summer. Reaching Dunfanaghy’s loveliest spot, Tramore Beach, requires hiking 20 minutes through the grassy dunes immediately south of the village.
Activities
WALKING
For an exhilarating hike, take the road from Dunfanaghy towards Horn Head until the bridge. After crossing, go through the gate on your left and stroll along the track until you reach the dunes. A well-beaten path will lead you to the magnificent Tramore Beach. Turn left and follow it to the end, where you can find a way up onto a path leading north to Pollaguill Bay. Continue to the cairn at the end of the bay and follow the coastline for a stupendous view of the 20m Marble Arch, carved out by the sea.
A shorter walk begins at Marble Hill Beach in Port-na-Blagh. Take the path on the left side of the beach past the cottage and work your way about 500m through the brush and along the top of the cliff until you reach Harry’s Hole, a small crevice in the cliff that is popular with daredevil kids, who dive 10m into the water below.
GOLF
Dunfanaghy Golf Club ( 074-913 6335; www.dunfanaghygolfclub.com; green fees weekdays/weekends €30/40) is a stunning waterside 18-hole links course just outside the village on the Port-na-Blagh road.
HORSE RIDING
Exploring the expansive beaches and surrounding countryside on horseback can be arranged through Dunfanaghy Stables ( 074-910 0980; www.dunfanaghystables.com; Main St; adult/child per hr €30/25; hr vary seasonally).
SEA ANGLING
Richard Bowyer ( 074-913 6640; Port-na-Blagh) organises sea-angling trips from the small pier in Port-na-Blagh between Easter and September.
SURFING, WINDSURFING & KAYAKING
Windsurfing lessons and gear hire are available through Marble Hill Windsurfing ( 074-913 6231; richardharshaw@eircom.net; The Cottage, Marble Hill, Port-na-Blagh; daily Jul & Aug, by appointment May, Jun & Sep).
Jaws Watersports ( 086 173 5109; www.jawswatersports.com; Main St) rents surfboards (€20 per half day) and offers lessons (€30), and also has kayak rental (from €25 per half day) and runs kayaking trips (€35).
Sleeping
Corcreggan Mill Hostel ( 074-913 6409; www.corcreggan.com; Corcreggan Mill, Dunfanaghy; campsites per person €8-9, dm €18, s €35, d €50-55, tr €70; ) Spotless dorms, most with private bath, and private rooms are tucked into cosy corners of this former mill house, next to the stone ruins of the old mill. An organic vegetable garden provides the ingredients for soups and stews (€5 to €10) served of an evening, and you can add a continental/full breakfast for €5/7. Weary travellers can unwind with a massage (back/full-body €15/40). Look for signs on the roadside and in the car park reading ‘Mill House’.
Carriage Hostel