Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [425]
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NORTHEASTERN DONEGAL
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ROSGUILL PENINSULA
The best way to appreciate Rosguill’s rugged splendour is by driving, cycling or even walking the 15km Atlantic Drive. It’s signposted to your left as you come into the sprawling village of Carrigart (Carraig Airt) from the south. There are plenty of thirst-quenching pubs in the village, and a pretty, secluded beach at Trá na Rossan. On no account should you swim in Mulroy Bay or the surrounding areas, as it’s unsafe. Perhaps this is why the summer crowds don’t linger here. Most prefer to travel 4km northward to Downings (often written as Downies), where the beach is spectacular, though it’s much more built-up.
Activities
Designed by St Andrew’s Old Tom Morris in 1891 and remodelled by Harry Vardon in 1906, the scenery at the Rosapenna Golf Club ( 074-915 5301; www.rosapennagolflinks.ie; Downings; green fees €50-85) is as spectacular as the layout, which can challenge even the lowest handicapper.
Sleeping & Eating
Casey’s Caravan Park ( 074-915 5301; rosapenna@eircom.net; Downings; campsites €10-20; Apr-Sep) You won’t get closer to Downing’s Blue Flag beach than at this extremely popular campsite right beside the dunes. The village is just around the corner. Book ahead.
Trá na Rosann Hostel ( 074-915 5374; www.anoige.ie; Downings; dm €15; late May-Aug; ) Knockout views envelop this heritage-listed former hunting lodge, now an An Óige hostel. The trade-off for its tranquil setting is that it’s 8km east of Downings and there’s no public transport. Note that reception is generally closed from 10am to 5pm.
Beach Hotel (Óstán na Trá; 074-915 5303; www.beachhotel.ie; Downings; s/d €60/100; Apr-Oct; ) The former Beach Hotel burnt to the ground but gave rise to this brand-new incarnation of exposed stone, wood and glass. Most of its 30 rooms have ocean views; those that don’t overlook the village centre and mountains beyond. The family-owners’ personal touch is evident everywhere, especially in the dining room (dinner served nightly for guests; Friday to Sunday for nonguests), where everything is cooked to order (set menus €20 to €30).
Downings Bay Hotel ( 074-915 5586; www.downingsbayhotel.com; Downings; s/d from €70/120; ) Just footsteps from the strand, rooms at this spacious, if slightly austere, hotel have subtle checked and striped fabrics. There’s an adjacent nightclub, a couple of bars (bar food €12.50 to €23.50) and an excellent restaurant, the Haven (Sunday lunch €18.50, dinner €60 to €70 for two including wine).
Olde Glen Bar & Restaurant ( 074-915 5130; Glen, Carrigart; mains €18-24; dinner Tue-Sat late May–mid-Sep, Fri-Sun Easter-late May, Sat & Sun mid-Sep–Easter) Authentic down to its original 1700s uneven stone floor, this treasure of a traditional pub in the tiny hamlet of Glen serves a sensational pint. Out the back, its small farmhouse-style restaurant serves outstanding blackboard specials. It doesn’t take reservations and is popular with locals – turn up by 5.30pm to get a table for the 6pm seating, or by 6.30pm for a table at the 7.30pm seating. By the time you leave, you’ll feel like a local yourself.
Getting There & Around
A local bus connects Carrigart and Downings (contact Patrick Gallagher, 074-913 7037), but you really need your own transport for this area.
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FANAD PENINSULA
The second-most northerly point in Donegal, Fanad Head thrusts out into the Atlantic to the east of Rosguill. The peninsula curls around the watery expanses of Mulroy Bay to the west, and Lough Swilly to the east, the latter trimmed by high cliffs and sandy beaches. Most travellers stick to the peninsula’s eastern flank, visiting the beautiful beach and excellent golf course at Portsalon, and the quiet heritage towns of Rathmelton and Rathmullan. Accommodation is relatively limited, so book ahead in summer.
Portsalon & Fanad Head
Once named the second most beautiful beach in the world by British newspaper the Observer, the