Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [426]
It’s another 8km to the lighthouse on the rocky tip of Fanad Head, the best part of which is the scenic drive there. Following the rollercoaster road that hugs the cliffs back to Rathmullan, you’ll pass the early 19th-century Knockalla Fort, built to warn off any approaching French ships.
The peninsula has some crankin’ surf – for lessons contact Adventure One Surf School ( 074-915 0262; www.adventureone.net; Ballyheirnan Bay, Fanad). Two-hour lessons, which include gear rental, cost €30.
The Lough Swilly ( 074-912 2863) bus leaves Letterkenny three times daily Monday to Friday, twice Saturday for Milford (€4.60, one hour).
Rathmullan
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The refined little port of Rathmullan (Ráth Maoláin) has a tranquillity that belies the momentous events that took place here from the 16th to 18th centuries. In 1587, Hugh O’Donnell, the 15-year-old heir to the powerful O’Donnell clan, was tricked into boarding a ship here and taken to Dublin as a prisoner. He escaped four years later on Christmas Eve and, after unsuccessful attempts at revenge, died in Spain, aged only 30. In 1607, despairing of fighting the English, Hugh O’Neill, the Earl of Tyrone, and Rory O’Donnell, the Earl of Tyrconnell, boarded a ship in Rathmullan harbour and left Ireland for good. This decisive act, known as the Flight of the Earls, marked the effective end of Gaelic Ireland and the rule of Irish chieftains. Large-scale confiscation of their estates took place, preparing for the Plantation of Ulster with settlers from Britain. Also in Rathmullan, Wolfe Tone, leader of the 1798 Rising, was captured.
SIGHTS
The picturesque Carmelite Rathmullan Friary is so entangled in vines that it would probably crumble should they be cleared away. It was founded around 1508 by the MacSweeneys, and was still used in 1595 when English commander, George Bingham, raided the place and took off with the communion plate and priestly vestments. Bishop Knox then renovated the friary in 1618 in order to use it as his own residence.
SLEEPING & EATING
Rathmullan House ( 074-915 8188; www.rathmullanhouse.com; s €80-100, d €160-240; ) This country house might be large and luxurious but the welcome from the family owners is so warm that you feel like you’re staying with friends. Sprawled over wooded gardens on the shores of Lough Swilly, the original house dates from the 1780s, but extensions are sympathetic and stylish. Higher-priced rooms have claw-foot baths and some open to balconies or terraces. There’s a tennis court, two genteel bars, and a glass-paned restaurant, the Weeping Elm, utilising organic produce from the property’s walled gardens (menus €45 to €55).
Fort Royal ( 074-915 8100; www.fortroyalhotel.com; s €110-125, d €150-165, cottages per week €550-750; Easter-Oct; ) This exclusive waterside country house has 15 old-fashioned rooms, an excellent restaurant and rambling gardens that feel as old as the house, built in 1805. The grounds extend to a private beach, and also include a tennis court and minigolf. Dinner is available for residents only (three-course menu €45).
Ań Stad T-Bar ( 074-915 8798; Major’s Row; dishes €4-10; 10am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug, Easter & Christmas) Home-baked fare including tasty potato cakes are served up at Sandra Daly’s cheerful little cafe just off the main street. This is also where breakfast’s served for guests at Sandra’s B&B diagonally opposite. The B&B’s four rooms (single/double from €35/70) are painted in tutti-frutti shades like bright raspberry, lime green and custard yellow. Two have private bath (though shy types should note that one bathroom doesn’t have a door).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The Lough Swilly ( 074-912 2863) bus from Letterkenny arrives in Rathmullan (€4.40, 45 minutes) once daily Monday to Friday, twice