Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [432]
Arc around to the northwest as you climb, aiming for the col between Raghtin More and Crockmain. Views over Mamore Gap and the Urris Hills become more extensive as you gain height. Heather begins to give way to jumbles of sharp quartzite as you near the wide summit plateau (2½ hours from the start). A high ring of rocks makes for a prominent summit cairn, although the views are better from the trig point, which is 50m to the west. From here, the sweeping panorama embraces Malin Head to the northeast, the Urris Hills to the southwest and a maze of coastal inlets backed by the profiles of north Donegal’s mountains beyond.
Descend relatively steep ground northeast from the summit to the col between Raghtin More and Raghtin Beg. The summit of Raghtin Beg (418m) is a short distance to the north and can be readily visited for more good views, especially across the sandy beach at Tullagh Bay. Return to the col and begin to descend through short heather, heading for the fenced area beside the track that you passed on the outward journey. Cross the stream in front of the enclosure, turn left at the track, and follow this back to the car park at the start of the walk.
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The other beach is at Tullagh Strand. Although swimming’s possible, the current can be strong and it isn’t recommended when the tide’s going out.
An 800m trail leads to the cascading 10m Glenevin Waterfall, with benches and picnic tables, and some fantastic walking into the mountainous landscape beyond. From Clonmany, follow the road signed to Tullagh Bay, cross the river and bear right at an intersection. Butler’s Bridge and the waterfall car park are about 1km further on.
With two championship courses, Ballyliffin Golf Club ( 074-937 6119; www.ballyliffingolfclub.com; Ballyliffin; green fees weekday/weekend Old Links €75/80, Glashedy €80/90; restaurant lunch & dinner) is among the best places to golf in Donegal. The scenery is so beautiful that it can distract even the most focused golfer. Its above-average restaurant, Linx, overlooks the fairways (mains €9.50 to €20).
SLEEPING & EATING
Tullagh Bay Camping & Caravan Park ( 074-937 8997; Tullagh Bay; campsites from €14; Easter-Sep) About 5km from Clonmany, this flat, windswept park is ideal for the bucket-and-spade brigade as it’s just behind the vast, dune-backed Tullagh Strand.
Glen House ( 074-937 6745; www.glenhouse.ie; Straid, Clonmany; menus from €17, tearoom 10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun Sep-May, restaurant lunch Sun, dinner Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, lunch Sun dinner Thu-Sun Sep-May) In a sparkling white manor house, the welcome couldn’t be friendlier or more professional at this gem of a guesthouse (singles €40 to €80, doubles €70 to €90). Its eight airy rooms look like they’ve been decorated for an interior-design magazine spread, and two have stunning sea views. The walking trail to Glenevin Waterfall starts next door to the tearoom, which opens to a timber deck. From September to May there’s a minimum two-night stay.
Ballyliffin Lodge ( 074-937 8200; www.ballyliffinlodge.com; s/d €120/250; ) This elegant 40-room hotel has ultraspacious autumn-hued rooms. An extra €35 gets you a sublime view over the ocean. You can treat yourself at the state-of-the-art spa, golf course, sophisticated Holly Tree Restaurant (mains €16 to €26.50), or in the laidback Mamie Pat’s (bar food €11.50 to €22.50).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Lough Swilly ( 074-912 2863) buses run twice Monday to Friday, once Saturday, between Clonmany and Carndonagh (€2.50, 20 minutes).
Clonmany to Buncrana
There are two routes from Clonmany to Buncrana: the scenic coastal road via the Gap of Mamore and Dunree Head, and the speedier inland road (R238). The Gap of Mamore (elevation 262m) descends dramatically between Mamore Hill and Croaghcarragh on its way to Dunree (An Dún Riabhach), where the Fort Dunree